Peaty
02-02-2002, 05:17 PM
I purchased my STi Group N Transmission Mount (MT Only) from Cobb Tuning (www.cobbtuning.com) The install wasn't that difficult. Should take an hour at the most. There are other directions on this site but they had the luxury of a lift. I have a lot of tools but a lift isn't one of them. Here is how I did it.
What you'll need:
- Ramps or something to secure car in the air / I like Rino Ramps myself.
- Eye protection / There is lots of crap under there to get in your eyes.
- 14 mm deep socket / this is needed to remove the front nuts to remove the center cross member.
- 6" extension / To reach the top bolts that hold the mount to the tranny and rear cross member bolts.
- Breaker bar / May be needed to remove the center cross member nuts (front) and bolts (rear) mine were on there tight.
Start by getting the car in the air. I use Rino Ramps, for this install I'm not sure jack stands are a good idea. You're gonna be tugging pretty good on the car. Some of the bolts are tight. Anyway, once it's up on the ramps and you've put the car in first and set the hand brake slide under there. First just loosen all the bolts, don't remove them just loosen. With an extension on a 14 mm socket, loosen the 4 bolts that hold the top of the tranny mount to the tranny, then the 2 lower bolts that hold the mount to the center crossmember. Next, with a deep 14mm socket loosen the front center crossmember nuts. They are located through holes in the front cross member. Then the rear center cross member bolts. Now raise the tranny as shown with a bottle or floor jack. I used some wood between the jack and tranny case so I didn't make any marks. Only raise it slightly 1/4 - 1/2" is all. You'll see the stress on the tranny mount be relieved. Then remove nuts from the bottom and top of the mount, next the front and rear center crossmember nuts and bolts. The fasteners that hold the center crossmember on are connected with a plate that has rubber isolator pads. Once everything is out put the new mount on the center crossmember, then put the crossmember back in place. Tighten down the crossmember bolts first. Watch out at the rear of the crossmember, the heat shield can get under it. I had to push it away a little. After the cross member tight, loosely put in the top bolts and bottom nuts on the mount. Lower the tranny back down and then tighten the mount's nuts and bolts. Don't go crazy tight on the 4 top bolts that are tapped into the tranny. You are going into a soft metal. I torqued to 40 ft/lbs, you don't want to strip these.
I went for a quick drive and I have to say the driveline lash is nicely reduced. I didn't notice any more NVH maybe a slight increase in vibration when passing through a specific RPM but nothing sever. I also have an upgraded Pitch Link, which helps reduce movement. The pitch link install is on this site too.
Peaty
What you'll need:
- Ramps or something to secure car in the air / I like Rino Ramps myself.
- Eye protection / There is lots of crap under there to get in your eyes.
- 14 mm deep socket / this is needed to remove the front nuts to remove the center cross member.
- 6" extension / To reach the top bolts that hold the mount to the tranny and rear cross member bolts.
- Breaker bar / May be needed to remove the center cross member nuts (front) and bolts (rear) mine were on there tight.
Start by getting the car in the air. I use Rino Ramps, for this install I'm not sure jack stands are a good idea. You're gonna be tugging pretty good on the car. Some of the bolts are tight. Anyway, once it's up on the ramps and you've put the car in first and set the hand brake slide under there. First just loosen all the bolts, don't remove them just loosen. With an extension on a 14 mm socket, loosen the 4 bolts that hold the top of the tranny mount to the tranny, then the 2 lower bolts that hold the mount to the center crossmember. Next, with a deep 14mm socket loosen the front center crossmember nuts. They are located through holes in the front cross member. Then the rear center cross member bolts. Now raise the tranny as shown with a bottle or floor jack. I used some wood between the jack and tranny case so I didn't make any marks. Only raise it slightly 1/4 - 1/2" is all. You'll see the stress on the tranny mount be relieved. Then remove nuts from the bottom and top of the mount, next the front and rear center crossmember nuts and bolts. The fasteners that hold the center crossmember on are connected with a plate that has rubber isolator pads. Once everything is out put the new mount on the center crossmember, then put the crossmember back in place. Tighten down the crossmember bolts first. Watch out at the rear of the crossmember, the heat shield can get under it. I had to push it away a little. After the cross member tight, loosely put in the top bolts and bottom nuts on the mount. Lower the tranny back down and then tighten the mount's nuts and bolts. Don't go crazy tight on the 4 top bolts that are tapped into the tranny. You are going into a soft metal. I torqued to 40 ft/lbs, you don't want to strip these.
I went for a quick drive and I have to say the driveline lash is nicely reduced. I didn't notice any more NVH maybe a slight increase in vibration when passing through a specific RPM but nothing sever. I also have an upgraded Pitch Link, which helps reduce movement. The pitch link install is on this site too.
Peaty