stanton
09-12-2003, 09:33 PM
Subaru doesn’t over-design their electrical circuitry, so the only way I found to run my HIDs whenever the headlight switch is on, and with high beam, but NOT with the flash-to-pass without overloading existing wiring is to use
a 30-Amp relay (Radio Shack 275-226)
an 18 gauge wire running through the firewall
and 2 – 1A diodes (Radio Shack 276-1101)
Here’s what I did. Hopefully it’s easy to follow, but it’s not meant to teach wiring. Comments are welcome.
One screw (underneath, left) is use to hold the cowling on the steering wheel column. Remove the screw and separate the cowl. You will have to “unlock” the steering wheel tilt lock to be able to remove the cover completely.
The most prominent electrical connector contains the YG (Yellow/Green) “power” wire mentioned above and GR control wires going to the multifunction switch.
Since I wired some separate DRL lights (yes, I believe in them), but didn’t want these to light with the headlights, I disconnected the YG wire. You might see that in the picture. But that's not related to this mod.
I used 18 gauge wire for the relay switch circuit. The picture showing the GR (Green/Red) wire is pretty self explanatory. But be careful, there are 2 GR wires on this connector. The relay switch ground lead is tapped from the GR wire on pin 13 (middle of connector). I really should have used a black wire here because this is for grounding. The diode in the GR wire is to keep the relay from being activated by the flash-to-pass switch. The diode in the relay switch ground wire is to keep the relay from being activated by “reverse logic”, like headlights off / parking brake on, or when key goes to “start”. This one caught me as a “duh”. Maximum current in this GR wire is 0.5A. Switch current for the relay is 0.1A. I used 1A diodes for each.
a 30-Amp relay (Radio Shack 275-226)
an 18 gauge wire running through the firewall
and 2 – 1A diodes (Radio Shack 276-1101)
Here’s what I did. Hopefully it’s easy to follow, but it’s not meant to teach wiring. Comments are welcome.
One screw (underneath, left) is use to hold the cowling on the steering wheel column. Remove the screw and separate the cowl. You will have to “unlock” the steering wheel tilt lock to be able to remove the cover completely.
The most prominent electrical connector contains the YG (Yellow/Green) “power” wire mentioned above and GR control wires going to the multifunction switch.
Since I wired some separate DRL lights (yes, I believe in them), but didn’t want these to light with the headlights, I disconnected the YG wire. You might see that in the picture. But that's not related to this mod.
I used 18 gauge wire for the relay switch circuit. The picture showing the GR (Green/Red) wire is pretty self explanatory. But be careful, there are 2 GR wires on this connector. The relay switch ground lead is tapped from the GR wire on pin 13 (middle of connector). I really should have used a black wire here because this is for grounding. The diode in the GR wire is to keep the relay from being activated by the flash-to-pass switch. The diode in the relay switch ground wire is to keep the relay from being activated by “reverse logic”, like headlights off / parking brake on, or when key goes to “start”. This one caught me as a “duh”. Maximum current in this GR wire is 0.5A. Switch current for the relay is 0.1A. I used 1A diodes for each.