Peaty
09-13-2003, 10:53 AM
I decided to go with the column mounted boost gauge instead of the performance gauge pack (3 gauges in the pod where the center dash hatch is) because I had one of those in my RS. The cost for the option VS the usefulness of the gauges wasn't really worth the money or trouble. Besides the turbo boost they supply, oil temp and volts while nice, not for 500+ USD not including the housing needed. They are spiffy to look at though :)
Oh also if you have the OEM oil temp gauge, there is a temp probe sensor that goes in the oil drain plug. That changes the 17mm oil drain plug to a 27mm (1-1/16") size w/ a wire sticking out of it. If you have an oil drain valve you'll have to give it up :(
The install of the Boost Gauge is pretty tricky I have to admit. There are lots of things to remove inside the cabin. Pulling the surround to the stereo off is relatively tricky. There is always the risk of snapping something if you are too ham fisted. So is removing the steering column cover. If you are still with me, here goes.
What you will need:
Forester Single Turbo Gauge: PN H5010SA010
-----
I got the gauge kit from Lisa Wilkins at this web address:
http://www.wrxrsparts.com/
Or you can call and order at: 800 584-8727
-----
Phillips Screw Driver: To remove various parts
Scissors: To cut out templet for mounting holes
Side Cutters: Cut into vacuum / pressure line from BOV
Drill w/ 4.5mm Bit: Drill mounting holes
10 and 12 mm sockets: To remove / loosen steering column parts to lower it.
I'm going to apologize in advance, I should have done this write up shortly after I did the install. I hope I remember everything. I also did not get any pics of the steering column case removal or lowering. I did scan the install manual in though so at least there will be some guide.
The pictures are pretty self explanatory and for the most part I'm gonna let them speak for themselves. Also, have a look at this page:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2153
The install there is for the STi boost gauge but that will help too.
I installed the "T" in the vac/pressure line first. It was pretty simple. Just cut into the line leading off the BOV about 3" back and install the "T". Make sure you plug the side of the hose w/ the damper in the "T" side. Pics below show what I'm talking about. The line is then run through the grommet in the firewall. Later secure the hose on the AC line w/ the supplied wire ties. On the inside of the cabin I pulled through the rubber hose all the way. You should be able to see it poking out just above where the top of the gas pedal attaches way under there and up on the fire wall.
Next the lower part of the dash, bezel around the speedo and steering column bezel need to be removed. All of which I have no photos I'm sorry to say but do have the manual sections for scanned in below.
I did try to do the install w/o lowering the steering column but in the end had to do it anyway. Getting the Speedo Bezel back in requires it when the gauge housing is on the column. There just wasn't enough clearance w/o doing that. Do not raise back up the steering column until the bezel around the speedo is back in place and the column surround is back on.
The top part of the steering column case needs to be drilled after the templet has been cut out and attached. This is pretty simple to do. Once the holes are in the gauge housing is attached. the housing itself is a hard rubber material. When it comes time to install the gauge you just sort of press fit it in place. Once it's in it seems like it will be a lot of trouble to move it again. I suggest make every attempt to get it turned the right way the first time you insert it.
To run the wire for the gauge light, you have to remove the whole center of the dash and stereo. You'd think there would be a better way but that's what it requires :(
Pull up the trim around the shifter. That's pretty simple just hook a finger around the back part of it and pull up.
Look here for a better description:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2198
Next remove the two screws shown below the HVAC controls. Now comes the really fun part. The bezel from around the stereo needs to come off. It's part pull and prey and part wrap a towel around a flat blade screwdriver and work the clip out type of deal. This is the part I had the most trouble with. With some patience it will come off though. The scans below describe this too.
With the bezel off there are 3 harness plugs that need to be removed. One up at the hazard switch and two down at the HVAC buttons. With those off you can put the bezel aside and start to take out the head unit.
There are only 4 screws (shown) holding in the stereo. After removing them the head unit will slip out. Behind the head unit you will see where the harness needs to be plugged into.
Once that is done you can run the wire from the gauge, under the dash to the location of the harness plug and plug it in. I'd suggest testing if the light works before putting everything back together. You don't want to have to take all that apart again that's for sure.
For the most part you are now done. Time to put everything back together.
Peaty 9/13/03
Oh also if you have the OEM oil temp gauge, there is a temp probe sensor that goes in the oil drain plug. That changes the 17mm oil drain plug to a 27mm (1-1/16") size w/ a wire sticking out of it. If you have an oil drain valve you'll have to give it up :(
The install of the Boost Gauge is pretty tricky I have to admit. There are lots of things to remove inside the cabin. Pulling the surround to the stereo off is relatively tricky. There is always the risk of snapping something if you are too ham fisted. So is removing the steering column cover. If you are still with me, here goes.
What you will need:
Forester Single Turbo Gauge: PN H5010SA010
-----
I got the gauge kit from Lisa Wilkins at this web address:
http://www.wrxrsparts.com/
Or you can call and order at: 800 584-8727
-----
Phillips Screw Driver: To remove various parts
Scissors: To cut out templet for mounting holes
Side Cutters: Cut into vacuum / pressure line from BOV
Drill w/ 4.5mm Bit: Drill mounting holes
10 and 12 mm sockets: To remove / loosen steering column parts to lower it.
I'm going to apologize in advance, I should have done this write up shortly after I did the install. I hope I remember everything. I also did not get any pics of the steering column case removal or lowering. I did scan the install manual in though so at least there will be some guide.
The pictures are pretty self explanatory and for the most part I'm gonna let them speak for themselves. Also, have a look at this page:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2153
The install there is for the STi boost gauge but that will help too.
I installed the "T" in the vac/pressure line first. It was pretty simple. Just cut into the line leading off the BOV about 3" back and install the "T". Make sure you plug the side of the hose w/ the damper in the "T" side. Pics below show what I'm talking about. The line is then run through the grommet in the firewall. Later secure the hose on the AC line w/ the supplied wire ties. On the inside of the cabin I pulled through the rubber hose all the way. You should be able to see it poking out just above where the top of the gas pedal attaches way under there and up on the fire wall.
Next the lower part of the dash, bezel around the speedo and steering column bezel need to be removed. All of which I have no photos I'm sorry to say but do have the manual sections for scanned in below.
I did try to do the install w/o lowering the steering column but in the end had to do it anyway. Getting the Speedo Bezel back in requires it when the gauge housing is on the column. There just wasn't enough clearance w/o doing that. Do not raise back up the steering column until the bezel around the speedo is back in place and the column surround is back on.
The top part of the steering column case needs to be drilled after the templet has been cut out and attached. This is pretty simple to do. Once the holes are in the gauge housing is attached. the housing itself is a hard rubber material. When it comes time to install the gauge you just sort of press fit it in place. Once it's in it seems like it will be a lot of trouble to move it again. I suggest make every attempt to get it turned the right way the first time you insert it.
To run the wire for the gauge light, you have to remove the whole center of the dash and stereo. You'd think there would be a better way but that's what it requires :(
Pull up the trim around the shifter. That's pretty simple just hook a finger around the back part of it and pull up.
Look here for a better description:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2198
Next remove the two screws shown below the HVAC controls. Now comes the really fun part. The bezel from around the stereo needs to come off. It's part pull and prey and part wrap a towel around a flat blade screwdriver and work the clip out type of deal. This is the part I had the most trouble with. With some patience it will come off though. The scans below describe this too.
With the bezel off there are 3 harness plugs that need to be removed. One up at the hazard switch and two down at the HVAC buttons. With those off you can put the bezel aside and start to take out the head unit.
There are only 4 screws (shown) holding in the stereo. After removing them the head unit will slip out. Behind the head unit you will see where the harness needs to be plugged into.
Once that is done you can run the wire from the gauge, under the dash to the location of the harness plug and plug it in. I'd suggest testing if the light works before putting everything back together. You don't want to have to take all that apart again that's for sure.
For the most part you are now done. Time to put everything back together.
Peaty 9/13/03