Peaty
09-27-2003, 07:52 PM
Got the system from Cobb Tuning here:
http://cobbtuning.com/forester/powerpackages.html#muffler.
Well known Subaru vendor and good guys to deal with.
The back box section is nicely welded as are the bends and flanges. I knew it was going to be a 3" diameter but when you have it in front of you it looks huge, like a stove pipe.
The install was pretty simple. Everything you need is supplied, some bolts and a gasket for the axle back section. You reuse the donut, bolts, springs and nuts at the cat flange section.
What you'll need:
Eye protection - Lots of stuff under there to fall in your eyes
Gloves - You'll be working around heat shields, they are sharp
Band-aids - If you don't think gloves are a good idea
12mm and 14mm wrench or sockets - Remove bolts and nuts
Ramps and or Jack Stands - Get the car safely in the air
Optional:
Some heavy duty hangers - I got a set of Kartboy Hangman hangers (www.kartboy.com) Cobb makes them too. These prevent the exhaust from moving around.
Never seize - I like to put this on all bolt threads when I work on exhaust stuff.
Hi temp Silicone - I put some on the axle back flange just to be sure it won't leak.
First get the car safely in the air. I used Rino ramps and then a floor jack to raise the suspension a little. I then put jack stands under to rest the frame on.
Install was pretty simple, I removed the mid pipe first. Undoing the cat flange( 14mm and 12mm open end) then the other end by the muffler section 2-14mm open ends) Then undo the hanger last and drop the whole part down.
Then move onto the axle back section. It's supported with 3 hangers. I found it best to remove them in this order. (before you do wrap a towel around the tail pipe chrome part. If it gets away from you you will scratch the under part of the bumper)
If you undo the drivers side rear hanger's bolt with a 14mm open end you can then lower that side and slip out the opposite side. It's tricky but supporting the whole thing then you can undo the one in front of the muffler. I've also done it by removing the one in front first then the two back ones. Either way it's easier with a helper :)
If you are going to re use the hangers just move them to the new system. If you have some nice Kartboy or other urethane hangers remove the steel sleeve from the drivers side rear hanger and put it in the KB bushing.
Info on KB hangers here:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=174&highlight=hangman
The mid-pipe has one hanger and it's larger (longer) than the other three. That one I reused because the KB hangers were shorter. I don't ever remember seeing a hanger that big on any of the other Subaru's I've worked on.
Next it's time to put the new system on. I put the mid-pipe on first then the rear section. It's pretty straight forward. I do like to use never seize on threads when it comes to working with exhaust systems. Reuse the hardware by the cat converter, there are new nuts and bolts for the axle back section and a gasket.
That's about it, not too tough.
If you have a rear diff protector you are going to have to remove it. I tried to notch out the protector to clear the flange but it didn't work. The flange cleared but the rear bolt that holds the protector impacts the pipe.
http://cobbtuning.com/forester/powerpackages.html#muffler.
Well known Subaru vendor and good guys to deal with.
The back box section is nicely welded as are the bends and flanges. I knew it was going to be a 3" diameter but when you have it in front of you it looks huge, like a stove pipe.
The install was pretty simple. Everything you need is supplied, some bolts and a gasket for the axle back section. You reuse the donut, bolts, springs and nuts at the cat flange section.
What you'll need:
Eye protection - Lots of stuff under there to fall in your eyes
Gloves - You'll be working around heat shields, they are sharp
Band-aids - If you don't think gloves are a good idea
12mm and 14mm wrench or sockets - Remove bolts and nuts
Ramps and or Jack Stands - Get the car safely in the air
Optional:
Some heavy duty hangers - I got a set of Kartboy Hangman hangers (www.kartboy.com) Cobb makes them too. These prevent the exhaust from moving around.
Never seize - I like to put this on all bolt threads when I work on exhaust stuff.
Hi temp Silicone - I put some on the axle back flange just to be sure it won't leak.
First get the car safely in the air. I used Rino ramps and then a floor jack to raise the suspension a little. I then put jack stands under to rest the frame on.
Install was pretty simple, I removed the mid pipe first. Undoing the cat flange( 14mm and 12mm open end) then the other end by the muffler section 2-14mm open ends) Then undo the hanger last and drop the whole part down.
Then move onto the axle back section. It's supported with 3 hangers. I found it best to remove them in this order. (before you do wrap a towel around the tail pipe chrome part. If it gets away from you you will scratch the under part of the bumper)
If you undo the drivers side rear hanger's bolt with a 14mm open end you can then lower that side and slip out the opposite side. It's tricky but supporting the whole thing then you can undo the one in front of the muffler. I've also done it by removing the one in front first then the two back ones. Either way it's easier with a helper :)
If you are going to re use the hangers just move them to the new system. If you have some nice Kartboy or other urethane hangers remove the steel sleeve from the drivers side rear hanger and put it in the KB bushing.
Info on KB hangers here:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=174&highlight=hangman
The mid-pipe has one hanger and it's larger (longer) than the other three. That one I reused because the KB hangers were shorter. I don't ever remember seeing a hanger that big on any of the other Subaru's I've worked on.
Next it's time to put the new system on. I put the mid-pipe on first then the rear section. It's pretty straight forward. I do like to use never seize on threads when it comes to working with exhaust systems. Reuse the hardware by the cat converter, there are new nuts and bolts for the axle back section and a gasket.
That's about it, not too tough.
If you have a rear diff protector you are going to have to remove it. I tried to notch out the protector to clear the flange but it didn't work. The flange cleared but the rear bolt that holds the protector impacts the pipe.