I got a set of STi springs for my Forester XT I'll be posting pics of the springs and eventually. These are JDM imports that are made for the Forester STi and not a set of USDM Impreza WRX STi springs. The total drop with these springs is only about one inch. USDM WRX STi springs drop the Forester about 3" I think.

Here are some particulars:

Part numbers:
ST2033088000 Front
ST2038088000 Rear

Lowers 25mm or 0.98 inch

Spring rates
Fronts: 34 N/mm
Rear: 29 N/mm

And a scan of the directions inside :p

page 2

Springs

STi Rear Spring:

13-1/4" (336.55mm) Height

4-7/8" (123.82mm) Top OD

6" (152.4mm) Bottom OD of spring

STi Front Spring:

11-3/4" (298.45mm) height

6" (152.4mm) Top OD

6-5/8" (168.27mm) Bottom OD of spring

Spring

Stock ride height for rear:

Stock ride height for front:

Ok here is what you will need for the install:

Floor Jack - To get the car in the air
Jack Stands - To keep it there

Have a look here for how to get the car in the air:

Jacking up the Forester (http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2673)

Torque wrench - To torque the various nuts and bolts14.5 ft lbs at the low end and 129 ft lbs at the high.

19 mm sockets and open ends - To remove the lower strut bolts

Breaker Bar - To remove get the lower strut bolts loose

Penetration oil - To soak the lower strut bolts, preferably over night.

12 mm socket - Remove upper strut tower bolts, ABS Sensor line and brake lines. A deep socket is useful for the upper strut tower.

17 MM offset wrench or 17 mm pass through - To remove top strut nut

6mm Allen wrench - to hold center spindle from spinning

Coil Spring Compressors - To compress the springs, you can get these at local auto stores. They will lend them out for free with a refundable deposit. Do not attempt the install w/o them.

Marker - To mark the positon of the camber bolt and hats right after you remove the strut.

I'm going to post the install scans then my pictures to help you a long some. I highly suggest soaking the bottom bolts overnight with some sort of penetrating oil to help you get them off easier

Peaty 11/9/03

2

3

Front suspension

Rear

Rear suspension

Do yourself a favor mark the location of the upper bolt shown here so when you put it back on you can get the camber in about the right spot and as soon as you drop the strut out, put a mark on the upper spring seat so you know which way it goes back in. This is very important. Same goes for the rear. When you put the new spring in place it's critical that you have it orientate properly. Failure to do so could result in clunking and damaged suspension bits. The fronts as shown above have holes in the top to show you which way is proper.

Front strut bolts lower

Other side to show ABS sensor wire stay

Top bolts in the front

Front strut out with spring compressor. Try to get the compressor tool at 180° across from each other to compress it as evenly as possible.

For the fronts and the rear there is a spacer between the upper hat and upper spring seat. After the top bolt is off (don't remove the top center bolt till you have the spring compressed) this spacer will fall off. When you put it back on it's important that the flat side faces down and the conical side is up against the bearing. Like this pic:

Since the springs I installed lowered the car about an inch I removed about an inch from each bump stop. The material is easly cut w/ a razor knife.

Rear strut top bolts, to expose the strut top part remove the plastic cover. You'll have to put the rear seat back down flat and open the door. It will tug right off.

Notice the writing on the top of the hat:

Strut removal, I missed the shot of un hooking the brake line from the strut. It's just a clip you pull out to release the brake line.

Compressing spring and removing it. don't forget to mark the upper hat so you get it in the same way again.

Some comparo pics here are the fronts

rears

front installed unsprung

rear unsprung

Stuff I used for the install :p

Results

Before

After

CU of front

and rear

after installing springs you'll need to have a 4 wheel alignment because you messed with the camber bolts. Here are the 04 specs

Just a quick update Looking at my notes here are some measurements before and after. The ones I wrote down were taken with out having to take a pic so I was able to get the tape measure positioned better for more accurate numbers.

Both times the front tires were at 30 PSI-G and 29 PSI-G for the rear. The first time amb temp was 59° and the second 63°F.

Floor to arch at wheel center:

Before: Front 29.25" (742.95mm) / Rear 29" (736.60mm)

After*: Front 28.25" (717.55mm) / Rear 28" (711.20mm)

*after only about 90 miles traveled / No change after a year.

-----------------------------------------------

11/10/03


The car dosen't feel lower when you sit in it but it does handle better. Steering is more responsive an less "Sloppy" but still needs improvement IMHO. I'm going to attribute this to the stock squishy tires. Ride has firmed up a little as you can feel the road more. Bumps are transmitted a little better to the driver but by no means harsh. I think I'm going to air the tires up more and see how that works.

I do like the way it looks, if you didn't know it was lowered, I'd say it looks stock.

Peaty

Some spring weight comparo numbers from Frank Z.:

I weighed the OEM and STi springs. They weighed:

Front = 5.7 lb/5.7 lb, old/new

Rear = 5.3 lb/6.5 lb, old/new

Thanks Frank :)

Just an update, I got my springs from a person that got an extra set when they were imported. However you can also get some here:


www.SubaruGenuineParts.com
monday-friday
8am-5pm
800.962.0822 - ask for 'parts' then ask for 'jamie'
subaruparts@subiegal.com

I frequently get asked about how I like the springs when I had them installed. This is my response:

I have to say ride quality is a very subjective thing. It depends what you are looking for I suppose. I can say that using the OEM struts (non -self leveling) with the STi pinks gave a very nice improvement in ride from my standpoint. It lowered everything about an inch, this to me was just right. The ride was more firm but not so harsh as to be too much for a day in and day out commute. The ride was more confidence inspiring than the OEM setup. Not wallowing anymore. Not what I would call track worthy but a happy medium between the OEM and what I have now which is the Forester STi take off. The STi setup I have now is much more on the stiff side for the dampeners. Now I have to be careful going down the road when drinking my morning coffee. While not bone crushing, I wouldn't want to take my current set-up on a long journey; hit an expansion joint and you know it. The pinks and OEM would be much more tolerable on a long haul. If you are really looking to tare around corners the F-STi take off setup is better than the pinks (though not up to the snuff my P1 take offs were on my RS Impreza, but then again this is a Forester) However if you throw price into the mix the pinks are a very good bang for the buck.