Peaty
11-23-2003, 03:06 PM
I did this install for a local WRX owner. These are Goodridge SS Brake lines. The lines were of good quality but the lines were not coated with any material like a set of Cobb lines I've installed before. They were Teflon sheathed. Naked lines make are very abrasive if they rub on anything. If I had a choice I'd go with coated lines.
What you'll need:
A can or two of brake cleaning fluid - To clean up the brake fluid that will get all over.
Rubber gloves - To keep the brake fluid off your hands. Nasty stuff brake fluid.
Jack Stands - It's best to get all 4 wheels off the ground to do this if you can. Look Here (http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=9561#post9561) to see how to get the car safely in the air. The directions are for the Forester but the WRX is the same.
Torque Wrench - to torque the banjo bolts (13 ft lbs) and lug nuts when you are done.
19mm socket - to remove lug nuts
10mm Flair nut wrench - This is a must to properly remove the flex line from the solid line.
12 mm wrench - to remove the OEM banjo bolt and brake line bracket from front strut.
14mm socket - to install the Goodridge supplied banjo bolt with torque wrench.
Flat blade screw driver - Too remove retaining clips
A pint or two of brake fluid - You'll need to bleed the brakes when you are done.
Brake Bleeding How-To (http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=6623#post6623)
I will give a general description of the install. Please look at the photo too for more detail:
Get the car safely in the air and remove the wheels. (this may be a good time to rotate the tires :)) I started with the front wheel. First thing I like to do is clean all the fittings that I'm going to loosen to prevent dirt from getting in the brake line. I used compressed air then some brake cleaner to do the job. Then I removed the 12mm bolt holding the line to the strut. Next I loosened the flair nut on the solid line with a 10mm flair nut wrench. Once it was loose I snugged it again to minimize how much brake fluid came out. You want to keep an eye on the level in the brake fluid reservoir. You do not want it to get so low as to empty it out. I was able to do all 4 lines w/ minimal loss. I never had to add fluid till it came time to bleed them. But it's best to check and keep the level up by adding fluid if needed.
Next I used a 12mm wrench to loosen the Banjo bolt at the caliper. Again I snugged it back to minimize the fluid loss. Next I used a flat blade screwdriver to remove the clip holding the flex line to the solid line. It just slides out. After the clip is off I unscrewed the flair nut from the flex line then undid the banjo bolt. Be ready for a flood of brake fluid out of the caliper. I have a large shallow pan I put under the brakes when I do this. Make sure the old washer from the banjo bolt is not stuck to the caliper You don't want to put two on the same side. Fit the new line in place. The banjo bolt has a copper washer on each side. It goes together pretty much the same way it came apart. Notice that the new lines banjo bolt had a slight angle to it. The angle faces away from the caliper. Now secure the line to the strut with the 12mm bolt. I found I had to slide the bracket on the new line that mounts to the strut to get it to match up. Care must be taken that the new line isn't kinked. When you put the solid line to the new flex line the hex end will fit into the slots on the mounting bracket. It may be necessary to loosen the flair nut to rotate the flex line so it isn't touching the car anywhere. The line needs to flex up and down and not rub up against anything. After the line is on install the clip back on the holding bracket and torque the banjo bolt down to 13/ft lbs. Clean the area with brake fluid cleaner. To be sure the line had good clearance I unlocked the steering wheel and rotated the rotor left and right.
The rear is similar to the front. The exception is the line is attached to the strut with a clip and not a nut and bracket. I found that I had to bend the strut clip slightly to hold the new line to the strut. I used a vice to ever so slightly bend the clip in. The clip was just too loose for comfort w/o bending it.
After all the lines are on you'll need to bleed the brakes and also verify there are no leaks. Spray all connections down with brake fluid cleaner and press down on the brakes hard a few times after you'be bled the system. Check for leaks. After the wheels are on and the car lowered get under there and make sure the lines have a good amount of clearance. Keep in mind the wheels are going to move up and down and the fronts left and right. I'd suggest bleeding the brakes again in a few days to be sure all the air is out of the system.
Peaty 11/23/03
What you'll need:
A can or two of brake cleaning fluid - To clean up the brake fluid that will get all over.
Rubber gloves - To keep the brake fluid off your hands. Nasty stuff brake fluid.
Jack Stands - It's best to get all 4 wheels off the ground to do this if you can. Look Here (http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=9561#post9561) to see how to get the car safely in the air. The directions are for the Forester but the WRX is the same.
Torque Wrench - to torque the banjo bolts (13 ft lbs) and lug nuts when you are done.
19mm socket - to remove lug nuts
10mm Flair nut wrench - This is a must to properly remove the flex line from the solid line.
12 mm wrench - to remove the OEM banjo bolt and brake line bracket from front strut.
14mm socket - to install the Goodridge supplied banjo bolt with torque wrench.
Flat blade screw driver - Too remove retaining clips
A pint or two of brake fluid - You'll need to bleed the brakes when you are done.
Brake Bleeding How-To (http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=6623#post6623)
I will give a general description of the install. Please look at the photo too for more detail:
Get the car safely in the air and remove the wheels. (this may be a good time to rotate the tires :)) I started with the front wheel. First thing I like to do is clean all the fittings that I'm going to loosen to prevent dirt from getting in the brake line. I used compressed air then some brake cleaner to do the job. Then I removed the 12mm bolt holding the line to the strut. Next I loosened the flair nut on the solid line with a 10mm flair nut wrench. Once it was loose I snugged it again to minimize how much brake fluid came out. You want to keep an eye on the level in the brake fluid reservoir. You do not want it to get so low as to empty it out. I was able to do all 4 lines w/ minimal loss. I never had to add fluid till it came time to bleed them. But it's best to check and keep the level up by adding fluid if needed.
Next I used a 12mm wrench to loosen the Banjo bolt at the caliper. Again I snugged it back to minimize the fluid loss. Next I used a flat blade screwdriver to remove the clip holding the flex line to the solid line. It just slides out. After the clip is off I unscrewed the flair nut from the flex line then undid the banjo bolt. Be ready for a flood of brake fluid out of the caliper. I have a large shallow pan I put under the brakes when I do this. Make sure the old washer from the banjo bolt is not stuck to the caliper You don't want to put two on the same side. Fit the new line in place. The banjo bolt has a copper washer on each side. It goes together pretty much the same way it came apart. Notice that the new lines banjo bolt had a slight angle to it. The angle faces away from the caliper. Now secure the line to the strut with the 12mm bolt. I found I had to slide the bracket on the new line that mounts to the strut to get it to match up. Care must be taken that the new line isn't kinked. When you put the solid line to the new flex line the hex end will fit into the slots on the mounting bracket. It may be necessary to loosen the flair nut to rotate the flex line so it isn't touching the car anywhere. The line needs to flex up and down and not rub up against anything. After the line is on install the clip back on the holding bracket and torque the banjo bolt down to 13/ft lbs. Clean the area with brake fluid cleaner. To be sure the line had good clearance I unlocked the steering wheel and rotated the rotor left and right.
The rear is similar to the front. The exception is the line is attached to the strut with a clip and not a nut and bracket. I found that I had to bend the strut clip slightly to hold the new line to the strut. I used a vice to ever so slightly bend the clip in. The clip was just too loose for comfort w/o bending it.
After all the lines are on you'll need to bleed the brakes and also verify there are no leaks. Spray all connections down with brake fluid cleaner and press down on the brakes hard a few times after you'be bled the system. Check for leaks. After the wheels are on and the car lowered get under there and make sure the lines have a good amount of clearance. Keep in mind the wheels are going to move up and down and the fronts left and right. I'd suggest bleeding the brakes again in a few days to be sure all the air is out of the system.
Peaty 11/23/03