I didn't see a write-up on this and thought it might come in handy for some wrx'ers out there. I wrote it after doing installing the Daddy's Pipe, but I would imagine the process is identical for any other 3rd cat eliminator.

Tools:
- Socket Wrench with 14mm socket and extensions and/or 14mm wrench
- Flat Head Screw Driver
- Set of Channel Locks or a Crescent Wrench
- Hammer or rubber mallet(sp?)
- WD-40 or equivalent

With my Daddy's Pipe I got (in addition to the pipe) a set of 2 14mm nuts and bolts and a new gasket for the downpipe (DP) and 3rd cat pipe connection. If yours didn't come with a new gasket, it wouldn't hurt to pick one up from a dealer (or make your own), if you haven't changed it in awhile or ever. The bolts came in handy since the stock set had rusted pretty well, but they aren't essential.

First thing to do is to let the car cool down if you've been driving. I did mine after not driving it since the night before, and later in the day so it was cold as ice; however i would let it set a good hour at least so you don't burn the crap out of your hand.

Next find a level surface to work on if you aren't lucky enough to have access to a floor lift (I wasn't at the time :( ). It'd be best to use a big hydraulic jack if you have access to one. I only had a little one at my parent's house and my stock trunk jack. I used the hydraulic jack as the lifting jack and i used the trunk jack as a sort of jack stand for lack of something better. I would use jack stands no matter what type of jack you're using if at all possible. You'll be shaking the car a bit when you're breaking the bolts so you want to be sure you don't get a chest full of scooby if the jack slips.

Jack up the car from the front right (passanger side) using any suitable jacking point (i just used the normal jacking position for the stock jack (see owner's manual) but you can use part of the frame if you know what to look for. Make sure to set your e-brake and if you have blocks to put behind the wheels, it'd be a smart idea.

The 3rd Cat is the first pipe after the Downpipe and will be shaped similar to your 3rd cat eliminator pipe (obviously). First thing you should do is disconnect the O2 sensor wire. The connector is located towards the driver's side of the car away from the 3rd cat. If you follow the wire you should find it (I found it after I came at the pipe from the front of the car, instead of the side. The wire may or may not be tacked down by 2 little snaps before the connector, so don't worry if you pull them out (just make sure you zip tie it down after). I used a flat head on the bottom side of the connector (where there is a gap) and popped it out.

Next step with this bad boy is break all the bolts. I used a liberal amount of WD-40 on all the bolt and nut to pipe gaps to make sure the rust that had accumulated was broken up a bit. They all take 14mm sockets so you won't need to change anything but the extensions. Mine had rusted pretty well onto the pipes so it took quite a bit of force to break all the bolts. The shop I took my car to to get my up and downpipes put on had forgotten (or lost) to put one of the nuts back on the DP/3rd cat connection, and the bolt had rusted into the connection so it took a ton of work to get it out. If one of your bolts gets stuck like that, don't hammer it too hard from the back (nut side) or it will be a pain to get through the hole at the end. I used a hammer to help break all of the bolts. The ones on the resonator/3rd cat have springs so it can move a bit (i'm assuming), and it's easiest to grip the nut with channel locks or a crescent wrench and loosen the bolt on the resonator side. There is also a bolt holding the 3rd cat to a little hanger, take this one out last if possible so you don't drop this thing onto your face.

After removing all the bolts, ease it over the hanger lip and make sure you are guiding the o2 sensor wire down so it doesn't break. To get the O2 sensor out you can use a wrench (I didn't have one big enough, so I don't know what size it is) or an O2 sensor socket if you have one; or just use a set of channel locks (or a crescent wrench) like I did. I didn't spray this with WD-40 for fear of getting some on the sensor (I don't know if it would actually do any harm, but I didn't want to risk it). It came out fairly easily once I got a good grip on it (it's threaded like a normal screw).

Next step would be to put the O2 sensor into your new pipe (I didn't have the socket for a torque wrench, so I'm not sure exactly what torque it should be) using whatever tool you used to get it off. You don't need to overtighten this or you'll regret it if you have to take it out again.

Next, hang the pipe onto the lip of the hanger and guide the O2 wire so the connectors are by each other (you can zip tie it now or later). I didn't connect it now just in case the pipe slipped it wouldn't rip the wires from the back of the sensor. I hand tightened the DP/3rd cat bolts first, then the hanger bolt and lastly the 3rd cat/resonator bolts. If any of these bolts have rust on them, spray the threads with some WD-40 and wipe off the rust first.

Lastly, tighten every thing up with a 14mm wrench or socket, connect the O2 sensor wires and take it for a drive. I checked to make sure all the bolts were tightened the next day just to be sure.

I think that was everything, hope some people found this useful. Feel free to pm or email me with any q's.
-Chris

Kastle,
I forgot to add something to my writeup on the 3rd Cat Eliminator Install. This is the revised version, can you just replace the old one with this one? Thanks!

I didn't see a write-up on this and thought it might come in handy for some wrx'ers out there. I wrote it after doing installing the Daddy's Pipe, but I would imagine the process is identical for any other 3rd cat eliminator.

Tools:
- Socket Wrench with 14mm socket and extensions and/or 14mm wrench
- Flat Head Screw Driver
- Set of Channel Locks or a Crescent Wrench
- Hammer or rubber mallet(sp?)
- WD-40 or equivalent

With my Daddy's Pipe I got (in addition to the pipe) a set of 2 14mm nuts and bolts and a new gasket for the downpipe (DP) and 3rd cat pipe connection. If yours didn't come with a new gasket, it wouldn't hurt to pick one up from a dealer (or make your own), if you haven't changed it in awhile or ever. The bolts came in handy since the stock set had rusted pretty well, but they aren't essential.

First thing to do is to let the car cool down if you've been driving. I did mine after not driving it since the night before, and later in the day so it was cold as ice; however i would let it set a good hour at least so you don't burn the crap out of your hand.

Next find a level surface to work on if you aren't lucky enough to have access to a floor lift (I wasn't at the time ). It'd be best to use a big hydraulic jack if you have access to one. I only had a little one at my parent's house and my stock trunk jack. I used the hydraulic jack as the lifting jack and i used the trunk jack as a sort of jack stand for lack of something better. I would use jack stands no matter what type of jack you're using if at all possible. You'll be shaking the car a bit when you're breaking the bolts so you want to be sure you don't get a chest full of scooby if the jack slips.

Jack up the car from the front right (passanger side) using any suitable jacking point (i just used the normal jacking position for the stock jack (see owner's manual) but you can use part of the frame if you know what to look for. Make sure to set your e-brake and if you have blocks to put behind the wheels, it'd be a smart idea.

The 3rd Cat is the first pipe after the Downpipe and will be shaped similar to your 3rd cat eliminator pipe (obviously). First thing you should do is disconnect the O2 sensor wire. The connector is located towards the driver's side of the car away from the 3rd cat. If you follow the wire you should find it (I found it after I came at the pipe from the front of the car, instead of the side. The wire may or may not be tacked down by 2 little snaps before the connector, so don't worry if you pull them out (just make sure you zip tie it down after). I used a flat head on the bottom side of the connector (where there is a gap) and popped it out.

Next step with this bad boy is break all the bolts. I used a liberal amount of WD-40 on all the bolt and nut to pipe gaps to make sure the rust that had accumulated was broken up a bit. They all take 14mm sockets so you won't need to change anything but the extensions. Mine had rusted pretty well onto the pipes so it took quite a bit of force to break all the bolts. The shop I took my car to to get my up and downpipes put on had forgotten (or lost) to put one of the nuts back on the DP/3rd cat connection, and the bolt had rusted into the connection so it took a ton of work to get it out. If one of your bolts gets stuck like that, don't hammer it too hard from the back (nut side) or it will be a pain to get through the hole at the end. I used a hammer to help break all of the bolts. The ones on the resonator/3rd cat have springs so it can move a bit (i'm assuming), and it's easiest to grip the nut with channel locks or a crescent wrench and loosen the bolt on the resonator side. There is also a bolt holding the 3rd cat to a little hanger, take this one out last if possible so you don't drop this thing onto your face.

After removing all the bolts, ease it over the hanger lip and make sure you are guiding the o2 sensor wire down so it doesn't break. To get the O2 sensor out you can use a wrench (I didn't have one big enough, so I don't know what size it is) or an O2 sensor socket if you have one; or just use a set of channel locks (or a crescent wrench) like I did. I didn't spray this with WD-40 for fear of getting some on the sensor (I don't know if it would actually do any harm, but I didn't want to risk it). It came out fairly easily once I got a good grip on it (it's threaded like a normal screw).

Next step would be to put the O2 sensor into your new pipe (I didn't have the socket for a torque wrench, so I'm not sure exactly what torque it should be) using whatever tool you used to get it off. You don't need to overtighten this or you'll regret it if you have to take it out again.

Now, look at the end of the Stock pipe that fit into the resonator section. Notice that it has a tapered looking gasket on the end that makes it fit into the resonator section really well (I didn't the first time!). This is called a donut gasket. Pry this up with a flat head (be careful not to dent it to much, they cost over $30 from the dealer) and smoosh it onto your new pipe.

Next, hang the pipe onto the lip of the hanger and guide the O2 wire so the connectors are by each other (you can zip tie it now or later). I didn't connect it now just in case the pipe slipped it wouldn't rip the wires from the back of the sensor. I hand tightened the DP/3rd cat bolts first, then the hanger bolt and lastly the 3rd cat/resonator bolts. If any of these bolts have rust on them, spray the threads with some WD-40 and wipe off the rust first.

Lastly, tighten every thing up with a 14mm wrench or socket, connect the O2 sensor wires and take it for a drive. I checked to make sure all the bolts were tightened the next day just to be sure.

I think that was everything, hope some people found this useful. Feel free to pm or email me with any q's.
-Chris