With the sub-zero temps we've been having here lately the shifting has been pretty stiff, like shifting through peanut butter till the car warms up. I've decided to switch to Synthetic oil in the tranny which should help that problem. Changing the fluid is pretty simple. Having the right funnel is the key.

What you'll need:

Eye Protection - You'll be under the car so stuff can get in your eyes.

Ramps or jack stands - to get the front in the air.

Floor Jack - to raise the rear to level the car out to drain all the fluid.

21mm or 13/16ths Socket - to remove drain plug, make it a 6 point if you can. (T70 TORX for newer cars)

Torque wrench - to torque in the bolt, if you over tighten it you can cause a leak by crushing the soft copper washer.

Funnel with long tube - to fill the tranny fluid I used a 1/2" (12.7mm) OD tube

3.7 quarts of 70W-90 GL-5 tranny oil of your choice - I used Royal Purple Max Gear* See update note below.

Catch Pan - for the Oil


It's best to drain the fluid while the motor is still hot, it will flow easier. Just be careful when it comes out you don't get burnt with splattering oil. Remove the dip stick from the filler tube and then get the front safely in the air, I like to use Rino Ramps. Put your pan under the drain plug and with your 21mm (13/16ths) socket or open end remove the drain plug. Be careful not to loose the copper washer that's on the plug.

In order to get all the oil out of the tranny the car needs to be level. I used a floor jack on the rear diff to bring the back up so it was level. Don't get under the car with just the jack on the back just let it drain. While the tranny is draining clean the gunk off of the drain plug. There is a magnet on the top of the plug and a lot of mung will collect on it over time. After it's done draining, drop the rear down then put the plug back in. Torque it in at 33 ft lbs.

Now put the funnel in the filler tube and put in about 3 and 3/4ths quarts of oil and check the level and adjust if necessary.

That's it - not too tough.

Note at the bottom of the page I have some automatic front diff info.

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

At 12,400 miles I put in the Royal Purple, I'm now at 22,000 miles. Over the past few months (as it got hotter here in KS) I've been getting an intermittent grind when attempting to shift into first while still rolling. I realize this is not uncommon even with the OEM Dino fluid. However as of late I've even experienced a grind shifting into first gear from a dead stop with the clutch fully depressed. It seems to be random and will not happen all the time. After reading around the forums I've decided to change out the RP for some Redline Shock Proof. I've used it before in my RS and had very good results with it reducing grinding while shifting (3-4) I was getting with that tranny. I will report back as to the results after I live with it for a while. However, right now I'd avoid using royal purple.

Peaty

Just a quick follow up. So far no grinding at all over the past two days. Sometimes I've even kind of sort of tired to make it grind by shifting to first when rolling at speeds I wouldn't dare before. I can feel the gears mesh but no grinding. It has been unseasonably cool over the past two days and it is on the early side to tell but so far so good. Shifting feels smoother but still positive. I took the RP out of the rear just now and put in some Redline. I had an extra bottle of the 75W90 in my garage.

OK with the Redline ShockProof in the tranny I have had no first gear grinding issues at all so I'm convinced for me the Redline is the way to go.

Peaty 9/6/2004

Update:

Peter J. L. was kind enough to send me a pic of a change Subaru has made to the drain plug. Because there have been many incidents of some quick change oil places that will remain nameless :rolleyes: that have removed the tranny plug thinking it was the motor oil*, a new plug has been fitted. I believe it's a T70 Torx. This is what it looks like

I'm not sure exactly when the change was made, sometime in the 04 MY as mine has the older style and Peters 04 has the newer one.

Peaty

* I talked to a Subaru area rep and it seems grease monkeys were draining the tranny oil and then filling the motor oil making for twice the amount. On the Automatics even changed the Auto tranny's filter thinking it was the motor oil filter then drained the front diff, double filled the motor oil and sent the person out the door. They didn't get far however...

Front diff only for automatic attached, bolt may be a Torx-70 depending on the year.

I was in my local AutoZone today and saw they had for 4 bucks a T70 socket. I picked it up because I know how hard they are to find. So if you can't find one check out AutoZone since they carry the GreatNeck brand Possibly they can order you one. PN is GreatNeck 24285

I did find a good price on one at Amazon:

http://tinyurl.com/ynowzt

But after shipping the cost was more than double :(

Some scans to clear a few things up. For the manual tranny, the front differential and 5 speed gear box (AKA tranny fluid) are in the same spot. When you drain the gearbox fluid on a manual, you are doing the front differential too. The one spot takes care of both. An Automatic Subaru has a separate place to change the front differential fluid. The differential fluid is the same as the manuals but you need less is all. The automatic tranny fluid (ATF) does not also take care of the front differential. That is taken care of differently. The only common thing on the manual and the automatics front differential (besides the fluid you use) is how hard it is to find the bloddy dipstick. They are both pretty well hidden down low on the back of the motor passenger side (LHD) You fill the differential up through the dipstick tube hole.

FWIW I put the rear diff specs here too because many times people do that at the same time