This is too install a 5ft cable style hood lock. This is a mechanical lock. No alarm required. The locks sell for $18 to $35. The DEI ones work well. The one I used is just like the DEI model. You will need one five foot cable style hood lock. A power drill. A drill large, maybe 3/4 drill bit. A dremel, or cutiing device to cut plastic.

I mounted my lock on the passenger side of the car with the key lock located in the glove box, but actually mounted to the metal tube behind and above the glove box.

First remove the glove box. Then drill hole throuygh firewall. See pic for location. Be sure to always drill a small hole then check for depth or objects by looking for light or using a sratch awl to "feel around. Drill from the engine side in. Make sure to not hit the wire harness on the other side.

Now run cable from inside the cabin through the firewall to the engine compartment. Run cable to the front cross member where the hood latch is. Be sure not to make any sharp bends.

Adjust key interior cable length so that key lock can be screwed to the 3 inch diameter metal bar behind glove box. Cenet the key lock below the center screwe hole for the glove box. This gives you a reference point for later. When you have to cut the glove box out. Mounting the key lock to the frame also allows you to remove the glove box without remove the hood lock. See pic below. This is what the end result will look like. Once that is finished, the next part is to mount the hood locking mech.

OK now take the cable run it to the front. I ran mine in front of the air intake. It is the only place it will fit and still be secure. The rest of the points on that frame sit to high or the hood sits to low. Not enough clearance. So I cut a porting on the air intake out. Nothing major. Easy. Then I notched a few places on it for the cable to rest. I also bent the front side in. So that it would sit lower. LOOK CLOSELY at the picture. The hood lacth will be next. It is teh hardest. Make sure to always lower the hood carefull and check for clearance, before slamming the hood.

Notice I cut a lil extra out from the front of the locking mech to make room for the top bracket. Refer to last pic.

Now is teh time to lower thr hood and check for clearance and mark the spot for the top bracket. the hood is curved and it is a pain. But here is a pic of my cheezball job.

After mounting check to see if it clears the locking mech and it is not too low, so it doesn't hit the frame. If it is a lil low a hammer may help.

Here is a pic of the other bracket supplied. I just showing you this pic as a refence of the operation. When the key lock in pushed in to the cyclinder, the cable slides forward pushing the bar into the bracket.

See pic

When the key is inserted an turned , a spring pushes the cyclinder back and move the bolt back. Very simple and strong.

The lock is not accessible from the front, even with the grill removed.