I admit it- I love air conditioning when I'm in my house. I love it when I sleep. I love it during a heat wave. I love it when the humidity soars. But damned if I ever turn it on in my car! Like many people, I much prefer to have the windows down whenever possible. When on an AutoX or HPDE track session, all groups I run with MANDATE that you drive with both driver and passenger window down, and it's not only a safety item, but during the summer on the respective track, it gets hot in the cockpit under the helmet, typically in long sleeves.

What's a 2002/2003 Subaru Impreza owner to do!? Cut a hole in the roof! Since the 02's and 03's don't come from the factory with a sunroof option, I decided to go with a JDM solution. This roof vent kit comes installed on the WRX STi Type RA which, to my knowledge, does NOT come with air conditioning. So the nice folks at Subaru put in this little vent.

Few words of warning:
1. It's expensive. I got mine from RalliSpec (HIGHLY recommend them) http://www.rallispec.com - it was a special order item from Japan (IIRC) and cost roughly $380.00 (I went and picked it up)

2. It is PERMANENT - yeah - it's a hole. In the roof. It ain't going away.

3. It only comes (from the factory) in the Type RA colors - white, black, and yellow, POSSIBLY blue, though I'm not sure. So for me, that means silver was out so I had to get it painted at a local shop (which did a great job) but that'll run you another $50-100 depending on who you use.

4. You WILL lose your maplights. Get over it.

5. It *will* get you compliments and make women want you.


With that said, let's get started. I used two EXCELLENT writeups I found which deserve mucho credit since they were all I had to go by so feel free to use them for reference:

1. http://www.rallyit.net/vent1.htm
2. http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34430&highlight=roof+vent

Thanks to those before me.

The entire install was done by myself and took roughly 4 hours, but I was taking pics and working slowly. No need to rush when you have a saw in your hand!

1. The first item of business is to remove the headliner. As is mentioned on the other instructions, this piece is inserted into the car prior to the windshield going in from the factory, so there is no way to take it out without causing it to bend. So the first step is to remove all the items on the roof. Feel free to go in any order, I'm just going to post the pics of the crucial stuff.

1. Remove the screw holding the little useless dohicky that sits in front of the maplights. Look below in step #4 and you'll notice a little round tab underneath - that needs to come out. I used a pair of pliers and mangled it pretty good, but after you reinstall it, I really don't think it's necessary.

2. Remove the 3 screws for the driver and passenger side sun visors. They're pretty sturdy, but don't bend them or they'll crease/break.

3. Remove the dome light. This is pretty easy. Just take a small flathead screwdriver and insert it into the slots that you can see on the near side and GENTLY pry - the plastic 'frosted' piece will come off rather easily. There are two screws which you need to unscrew, but note that they DO NOT come out - just unscrew them enough for the light fixture to "fall out" of the headliner.

Note the clip - it's a standard "press on here, pry there" deal - again, small flat head works to get this out.

4. Like the dome light, the map light gets pried where the two plastic tabs can be seen on the left and right side. Like the dome light, it unclips and is rather easy to see once you get in there. Don't feel too bad about scuffing this one up since you'll never use it again!

5. Remove driver and passenger A-pillar It took me a while to figure this one out, but as it turns out, it's as simple as it seems: just yank on it! Note the big white clips in the picture, as they're what's holding it in. Be gentle yet firm, and they will snap out of place without any breakage. I choose to remove them entirely from the car to get them out of the way. They're sort of tucked up in between the dash down at the bottom.

6. The c-pillar is the same deal. Just pull on it and it will snap out of place. I did NOT have to entirely remove the c-pillar, nor did I have to unbolt the rear seat belts. I DID, however, move them both to their lowest setting to make it easier to pull off the c-pillar cover.

7. The coat hangars are relatively easy. I, again, choose to use the small flat head screwdriver to "snap" the little gray covers off, thus exposing the bolt(s) that hold them to the roof. Once you do one you'll see how they work, but essentially, you "pry" the portion of the plastic touching the headliner AWAY from the headliner, and it will snap off. You can then slide it to the center, thus exposing the bolt. Remove the two bolts and you're done. Again, with these, the bolts do NOT come out - just unscrew them until they are no longer holding the hangar and set them aside.

8. There are rear clips holding the headliner up and they need to be removed carefully. You can see the clips below after they are removed which should help you get a better idea of how they work. Basically, the clip is two parts. Using the handy dandy tiny flat head screw driver, you need to pry BETWEEN the gray (visible) and the black (invisible when it's in the headliner) in order to separate the two, thus making the clip removable. As always, once you do one, you'll immediately see how the others work. I never damaged or bent them and was pretty careful so you shouldn't have any problems.

9. I found it was MUCH easier to remove the headliner if the driver and passenger seat belts were removed from the b-pillar. This is very simple to do as you just grasp the gray cover and pull - it will just snap off exposing the bolt. I believe it's 14mm, but it could be 12. It's on there pretty tight so make sure to use a beefy ratched or wrench. After unbolting just let it hang on the side of the pillar out of the way. Like the a and c pillars, just pull the b pillar and it will snap out of place.

10. Headliner removal is more of an art than instruction. I started at the front and gently pulled around all the pillars until it literally fell on my head. If you have to pull too hard, there is a good chance you forgot to take something out like a screw or clip or a plastic pillar cover. It's cardboard-ish in strength so go easy on it or else you'll crease it and kick yourself later on when you go to put it back. I was able to lay it so that it would rest on the rear "hat shelf" and the front head rests rather nicely and out of the way.

The pic illustrates the clip up by the rear view mirror that *I* forgot!

11. Now it's time to dremel out the map light bracket. I didn't take a picture, so I am using the RallyIt! picture (Thanks guys!!!) but you can see where they circled it. I just used a small drill bit - you don't want anything too serious or push too hard - if you slip, the bit could go right through the roof. And we only want to make holes in this project after we've measured a few times - NO ACCIDENTAL HOLES PLEASE!!

http://www.rallyit.net/images/step6.JPG

12. After removing the useless map light bracket, take your roof vent bracket and mount it up to the front screw holes. You'll note that it clears the famous "roof support beam" no problem and the screw holes are in the perfect location. Make sure it's positioned properly and take a pencil and draw around the "hole" to mark the location on the underside of the roof. You'll note the hole is NOT symmetrical front to back - this is somewhat important to note so you don't accidentally cut the hole backwards later on.

Take lots of time to check for accuracy as cutting a hole isn't something you want to do twice because you measured wrong! While you've got the bracket mounted, also mark off the four locations at the back of the bracket where the actual vent will mount. Again, measure three times if necessary. Mount and remount the bracket and check for accuracy!!

13. After ensuring your markings are good you can start by drilling the four holes for the vent. I choose to leave my bracket IN PLACE while drilling while others may choose to remove the bracket and simply use their markings. Whatever suits you. Just beware that your drill bit may walk slightly. Use a metal cutting bit (obviously) and press firmly, but not too hard so as to dent the roof from the underside. Start slow with a VERY small bit until the moment of truth: the bit will go through the roof.

Take a deep breath - there is no turning back now. You now have a tiny hole in your roof and you've taken the first (very big IMO) step! After cutting the four holes, test align the roof vent to make sure they're in the right spot. Gradually increase the size of your drill bit until the vent slips into place, flush against the roof. Make them too big and it could leak. Too small and you'll have to force it in there, possible denting the roof in the process. As with all cuts, START SMALL AND WORK YOUR WAY UP. You can ALWAYS increase the size of the hole, but never go back, ya know?

removed - see next step

15. The next step involves making a template out of something like cardboard to transfer to the roof side for cutting. I just used an old cardboard box and layed the PLASTIC TRIM PIECE on top of it, tracing the inner diameter with a pencil and cutting it out. You don't have to be perfect, and you CAN err on the side of slightly LARGER than smaller because the gasket is sized well enough that you have some room to work with without worry.

After making the template, go BACK inside the car with a tiny drill bit and start drilling small "guide" holes from the bottom through the roof so you can mark where the template needs to go. I drilled 8 holes total which made it really easy to align the template while on the roof. Again, note that it is not perfectly symmetrical front to back so make sure you align it properly. Take your time, measure thrice, cut one, etc.

UPDATE: so as you can see in the picture, we now have the 4 holes to mount the vent, and some pilot holes (drilled from the bottom up) that allowed us to lay our template and trace it.

16. Here is my trick for keeping the cabin clean. Basically, take the biggest trash back you can find (go hefty sic sac!) and tape it around where you're going to be cutting. Give it as much room as possible so you don't accidentally cut the trash bag with a blade, and tape it in as many places as you can to make sure it's sturdy. Don't worry about tape marks since your headliner is going to cover it all up anyway.

This keeps metal dust and shavings to a minimum and makes for easy cleanup after cutting the big hole.

17. Now it's time to mask off the part of the roof we DON'T want to scratch up. I used painters tape and taped the heck out of the roof around the cutting area. Use plenty and don't skimp - I escape with no sign of cutting: no scratches, no nicks, no dents and you can too!

Again, you'll note my "less than precise" closeness, which is fine since the gasket really does give you a fair amount of room to work.

18. Since I was working alone, you don't get any action shots of cutting the hole. But basically, it consists of using a saber saw and a metal cutting bit. I bought two bits from Sears and barely scratched the first one, but if you happen to break one, it's nice to have a spare. Total cost: a few bucks at the most.

Start by drilling a larger pilot hole, somewhere near a straigh edge. I picked one of my "alignment" holes and made it bigger until the hole was big enough for the saber saw to fit through. Then I covered the bottom of the same with paper towels + packing tape so it would "slide" but not scratch the paint (or chew up my blue painters tape.)

Go slow, take plenty of breaks. If you have an extra set of careful and willing hands, you'll probably want somebody to hold the roof towards the end of the cut because it gets very bouncy and flimsy, making it difficult for the saw to bite at the metal. Start on the straight, go 30% clockwise, then go back and go 30% counter clockwise, and finish on the opposite straight. Works very well, and don't worry too much abuot making a super clean cut. ALso don't worry about being 100% straight, but try not to veer TOO much outside the line- as stated many times, you can always make the hole bigger, but it's very difficult to make it smaller!!!

I used the towel to lean on so I wouldn't scratch anything. Step back and admire your new skylight!!!

19. I used a metal sanding bit on a dremel to smooth out the cut just so it wasn't so darn sharp, and to make my hole a little bit bigger since I cut it, purposefully, a tad on the small side.

Try to get your gasket to fit the first time as it's a bit of a PITA to keep taking off and refetting. I had to do it 3 times, so it's not that it's impossible, it's just annoying.

Look at the way it fits on my car and on the other websites to see which direction it goes, but basically, the flat "printed" looking side faces up towards the sky, and the rubbery part sits inside the car. You'll also note a seam on it - make sure the seam is in the middle of one of the flat sides or it'll bug the heck out of you! Don't be afraid to push it in there as the sharp edge of the hole will bite into the rubber and make a nice bond.

You could possibly use some sort of silicon sealant here if you wanted to, but you'd have to be damned sure your gasket was going to fit right. If you absolutely want to seal it, I suggest putting the gasket in place, and then go to the INSIDE of the car, and run a bead of silicon or whatever around that part of the gasket.

The only time I experience water coming in if I take a garden hose and spray it directly at the vent head on, right in the creavice. Once during a MAJOR rainstorm (so bad I had to pull over) I had a drop or two get in, but I was also going 30mph. It was so bad I had to completely pull over on the highway.

20. Now it's time to mount the vent! If it isn't already assembled, assemble the handle to the vent - just look at the pics and it should be pretty obvious how it gets assembled.

Slide the 4 studs through the holes and bolt them down- tight, but not "bend the metal" tight. You should note that the vent hinges sit flush with the roof and have full range of motion. It will probably bump into the gasket when laying on it's own, which is good; that means you'll get a nice tight seal when it's closed.

20a. This pic shows what the latch mechanism should look like if you had to assemble it yourself.

21. Now you can mount the bracket to the former map-light bolt on location with the supplied hardware, but DON'T mount the latch- that goes on the outside of the trim, thus it won't fit quite right just yet.

22. Now you can begin to put the headliner back into place. You probably won't want to mount everything, but a few key items to hold it in place so you know where to cut should suffice.

Take a box cutter with a *SHARP* blade or similar object and begin puncturing a hole. (Go from the top of the car the first time and "puncture" a few pilot holes. IT IS CRUCIAL to go VERY small and VERY conservative on this because it's the part you'll actually see. When I have passengers look at it, 99% of the dumb ones think it came from the factory because it looks so damned good. The other 1% still think it looks damned good, but they know I cut the hole myself!

Here you can get a general feel of what size and shape you're shooting for. That headliner is a bitch to cut as it's got foam to go through and the fabric is very difficult to "saw" at, so be careful with your fingers and be careful not to slice too big of a cut and go 6" too far. If there is a part to slow down on and take a breather, it's this part. IMO, easily the most frustraing and annoying and uncomfortable part of the job. Use the plastic trim piece to test fit it over and over again. I probably test fit it 6 times before I was even close.

23. Go have a bon fire with the leftovers cause that's what you'll feel like doing. Here is a sample of the amount of crap cut away from the headliner.

24. Finally, once you can place the plastic liner on there and have it be snug and see all the holes, use the plastic clips to lock it in place. Connect your two bolts to the latch, pat yourself on the back, and congratulations on a job well done!!

OK, try it out a few times. You'll note that latch REALLY snaps into place. The motion is a little awkward at first, but move it a few times, and you'll see how it's supposed to work. Basically, to go from "open" to "closed" you pull the latch towards you and it "snaps" into the middle/floppy setting. Pull the vent down, push away from you, and it snaps closed. To open, pull towards you to the middle/floppy setting, and push up. Then to secure it open, push away and it snaps "open."

I can't read japanese but it says something about 80km/h... I've had it open at the track where it would sustain speeds >100mph for about 5-10 seconds and don't see an issue. I've cruised with it up at 75mph for hours on end and don't see it ripping from it's base, but, use caution as that warning is probably there for a reason. If it were my guess, it would be do not OPERATE it above 45mph. If it's open above 45mph, wait until you slow down to close it. If it's closed and you're doing 65mph, DO NOT OPEN IT. You'll feel the wind catch it and I could see how THAT could create a potential problem.

That's really about it! You'll probably have about 25 more minutes of work to put the headliner, coat hangers, dome light, and pillar covers back into place. If you used my trash bag idea, you shouldn't have much else cleanup (maybe some innards of headliner??)

25. Pics from the outside and back seat.

Final word: Since I started writing this tutorial (and forgot about it!) It's been 3/4 of a year. Since the time I installed it until now, I honestly have to say I have NO regrets. It's fantastic at the Autox and the track on hot summer days. I pop open the vent and the car cools off MUCH faster, especially once you start moving, and ESPECIALLY after sitting in the sun in the parking lot. It's easy to operate, it's unique (though becoming more popular!)

Some will argue it'll drop the value of your car if/when you go to sell it, so take that into consideration. There is a little bit more wind noise that is noticeable even when it's down. This is because (A) it disrupts airflow over the once perfectly smooth roof, and (B) you cut out about 10" square of headliner, fabric, and sound deadening. It's nothing that bothers me, but take it into consideration as this is not an "undoable" mod. All in all, time should take you between 4-6 hours from start to finish. Don't rush it - if it takes you 12 because you want to be super careful, don't feel like you're retarded. The important part is that it comes out right!

If you have any questions, please feel free to drop me a line at cirruswrx@artechnik.com - I admittedly don't get much but SPAM there, so if you don't get a response from me, it's not cause I hate you- send it again, or hit me up on NASIOC - same s/n via PM or email.

Thanks and good luck! (Photo's courtesy of Tensen)

PS - I realize my car and the direction I've taken it is not everybody's cup of tea- that's cool with me! I like it and like how it looks and drives, and if you don't, I've got no problem with that. If you're interested on why it looks a little different here are a couple of things:
1. Painted morettes
2. STi genome grill, painted, thick mesh screen backing painted gloss black
3. Bumper - stock replacement for a trashed one, bought new unpainted, had shop paint ENTIRE thing silver (middle strip + foglights) as it was easier and cheaper.
4. Painted side mirror "triangles" - when I had all the other stuff painted, I figured why not - couldn't drive the car anyway, and it was an extra $10 each.
5. WRC replica wing (fiberglass) painted to match.
6. STi hood scoop
7. 17" rota attacks, steel gray w/ polished lip and front covered in brake dust

enjoy!
http://www.plaftaphoto.com/albums/album88/IMG_8064.jpg

http://www.plaftaphoto.com/albums/album88/IMG_8065.jpg

http://www.plaftaphoto.com/albums/album115/IMG_3048.jpg

Nice post, but from a daily driver POV like me, EEK! You could possibly get good ventilation by utilizing the intake system for the a/c. I know you have gutted it all out but perhaps a little piping here and little love there, you would have some nice flow through the cabin. Have you taken out the back seats? You could also get more ventilation if the air had a place to go, such as cutting an outlet in the trunk to the rear fenders so that the air could escape. That is if the seats are down or better, out. You have to be losing some aerodynamics if the windows are down.


:D Just trying to help.