USDM 2000+ Legacy Rear Disc Upgrade [Archive] - ScoobyMods

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Peaty
09-27-2002, 04:45 PM
This is a pretty simple upgrade to do. The rotors are about an inch larger in diameter than the stock RS rears. I got all the parts form Lisa Wilkins at Subaru of Gwinnett call 800 584-8727 or e-mail her at sugar30041@yahoo.com.

What you will need:

2 - 26625AE000 - Legacy rear caliper bracket

1 - 26696FC002 - WRX rear brake pad kit

2 - 26700AE04B* - 2000 + Legacy rear rotor

*Part 26700AE04A is superseded by 26700AE04B

Jack and Jack stands - To get the car securely in the air

Hi temp Caliper Grease - To lube the guides

Brake Cleaner - To clean the rotors when you finish

Brake pad anti-squeal

14 mm socket / ratchet - to remove caliper and bracket

Torque Wrench - To install the parts properly

Rubber mallet or dead hammer - To remove stubborn rotor

If you opt to remove the dust shields you will also need:

Drill and large bit - To drill the spot welds

Hammer - To hit the shield and remove it

Black paint - To paint the marks left by the drill holes in the backing plate.

How to do it:

After you get the car in the air and wheel off. Loosen all 4 - 14mm bolts that hold the caliper and bracket in place. After that's done take off the caliper (top 2 bolts) and put it aside on something. Don't let it dangle by the brake line it can damage the line and weaken it. I found I was able to put it on the sway bar. Then remove the bracket (bottom 2 bolts). Here you can either work on getting the rotor off or prepare the new bracket. I did the bracket. I put some anti-squeal on the pads then installed the shims. I put the clips in the brackets, there are 4 clips, 2 for each bracket. (see pics below) Then slide the pads in the bracket, keep them to the outside so the bracket will go over the rotor. Now remove the guides from the old bracket. Tug on the guide and the rubber part will pop off of the bracket. Pay attention to which location each guide comes from. The guides are different. I placed the old bracket in front of the new one so I didn't mix them up. If you do, the guide with the rubber tip is closest to the ground when installed in the bracket. Clean up the guides and apply fresh caliper grease. (Hi temp grease) Insert them into the new bracket making sure you get a good seal with the rubber dust boot.

Next remove the old rotor. RELEASE the parking brake. If it's not off you will not get the rotor off. There are brake shoes inside holding it on tightly.

The rears are easier because you can hit the back side of the rotor with a hammer to get it off. If it's stuck hit the back of the rotor and rotate it hit it a little more. Do it as evenly as possible It should come off. If not use some bolts to put in the threaded holes to pop it off. Now decide if you want to move the dust plate back w/ a hammer or remove it, the new rotor is too big and will not fit. I removed it by drilling on the spot welds. Check out the pics below.

With the dust plate out of the way you can put the new rotor on. Install the caliper bracket torqueing down the 2 14mm bolts, once it's in place, squeeze the pads together on the rotor. Before the caliper can be put over the rotor, the piston will need to be pushed back in the caliper (see pics below). Use a C-Clamp (put one of the old shoes on the piston then put the clamp on the shoe) unless you have the right tool. Be careful that you don't overflow the brake fluid reservoir; when the piston goes back in the caliper fluid will back up in to it.

Now put he caliper in place matching up the notches in the guides to the ones on the caliper. Torque down the bolts and your are done. Spray the rotor surface, front and back with brake cleaner to get off any grease or dirt you may have gotten on it during the install. Put the wheels back on and go for a test drive.

Peaty

9/27/02

For more info on brakes go here:

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=2292#post2292

Peaty
09-27-2002, 04:47 PM
Bracket compare

Peaty
09-27-2002, 04:49 PM
you can see that the bracket holds the caliper further out

Peaty
09-27-2002, 04:51 PM
Rotors side by side

Peaty
09-27-2002, 04:52 PM
another

Peaty
09-27-2002, 04:53 PM
Here is what you start off with after you remove the wheel (Newer style caliper, see pic below for older style)

Peaty
09-27-2002, 04:57 PM
remove caliper

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:10 PM
After you remove the guide bolts at the top you can lift the caliper off.

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:15 PM
After the bracket is off you will have to prepare the new pads to install in the bracket. I put Anti squeal on mine.

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:16 PM
One pad is not the same

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:16 PM
compare, the pads are the same, I got new ones anyway.

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:17 PM
Install clips in bracket, four come with the kit

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:18 PM
Put pads in bracket

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:20 PM
other view

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:22 PM
Now transfer the guids from the old bracket to the new one, give a tug and they will pop right out:

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:23 PM
Note

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:24 PM
Lube before install

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:26 PM
Next you'll have to remove the old rotor. Make sure the e-brake is off or you will never get the rotor off ;) Mine came off with a little coaxing with a dead hammer but if yours are stuck you can use this pic here from when I did the fronts:

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:28 PM
with the old rotor off you will not be able to put the new one on unless you do something with the dust shield

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:30 PM
Here is how I removed mine:

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:31 PM
drilled

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:32 PM
Some hits with a hammer on the backside will get it off

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:34 PM
Once off you can trash them:

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:35 PM
Now slip the new rotor in place and attach the bracket:

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:37 PM
Before you put the caliper in place you will need to compress the piston

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:44 PM
After the Caliper is slid in place, turn the guides so the notch in it matches up with the one on the caliper. Then torque the 2 - 14mm bolts down to 144-204 in/lbs

Peaty
09-27-2002, 05:49 PM
That's it now just clean the rotor surfaces with some good brake cleaner and make sure there is no grease or dirt on them. Put your wheel back on and lower the car.

Peaty
10-01-2002, 03:47 PM
Thanks to subysouth for some more good brake info:

OEM 1999' RS/ 02'WRX rear rotor:

266x10(170)mm - 266mm diameter, 10mm thickness, 170mm parking/hand brake (266 mm = 10.47")

Legacy OEM 2000+ rear rotor:



2000+ Legacys and 290x10(170.) (290mm=11.42)

What other models can the 290 go on? :

Any Subaru since 1990. All the Subies with single pot rear discs since 1990 use a backing plate with 5.75" caliper mounting bolt spacing, so they are all compatible with this upgrade. {The only rear disc setup that wont bolt up to the backing plates on single pot rear equipped Subarus is the 2-pot rear calipers. They use 4.5" mounting bolt spacing with no backets. They use an entirely different backing plate.} So, as long as you source the "H6" rotor and caliper brackets and have the "newer" style caliper you're good to go on this upgrade. If you dont have the "newer" style caliper, you would also need to source it w/pads, along with the caliper brackets, and rotors.



Bolt Torque Specs:

My manual (Haynes) does not list specs for the guide pin per se. It lists specs for the front lock pin at 25-33 ft/lbs and the rear lock pin at 144-204 in/lbs. I imagine it would be the same for guide and lock pins. The caliper bracket torque specs are front 51-65 ft/lbs and rear 16-23 ftlbs.

The picture below is of the "Older Style" caliper

Peaty
05-15-2005, 07:27 PM
Thanks to LostInTexas we now have the torque specs :)

Peaty
09-21-2006, 01:42 AM
Updated info from techy101 over at www.SubaruForester.com:

Part numbers for the Powerslot rotors and for the Hawk brake pads. Here's the info.

Rotors (From http://www.frozenrotors.com)
Powerslot Cryo-Frozen Rotors

Rear Left
358PSL

Rear Right
358PSR


Hawk Brake Pads

HPS
434F.543

Ceramic
434Z.543

HP Plus
434N.543