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Old 01-14-2002, 09:11 AM   #1
kastle
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Oil Drain Valve

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:


Note: Please see updated info at bottom of the page

These valves are well made and very easy to install. I've had one on our Legacy for a few years now with no problems. They make 2 types one has a nipple so you can slip on a hose and open the valve to drain in directly into a container. I got mine direct here: www.fumotovalve.com the cost was 22.95 for the standard one (F105) and 25.95 for the one with the nipple (F105N). Changing the oil is quicker and now I don't have to replace the crush washer each time either like Subaru states. The same part works
on the Legacy, WRX or Impreza. You can either use the blue fiber washer that came with the valve or a crush washer. I've tried both and they work fine with no leaking. My preference is to use the blue washer and screw in the valve so that the lever on the valve is facing the rear of the car and slightly upwards. This makes it necessary to reach around the valve (if you are reaching from the grill area) to open it but I think it's a little more protected from road debris this way. I'd only use the valve with
a nipple if you have a skid plate that it will clear. Otherwise I think it will stick down too far looking for trouble.

You can order them direct or Gregory usually stocks them at Marin Subaru call him at 800.400.6144 ask for him in parts.








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Old 01-24-2002, 12:28 PM   #2
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If you get the drain valve there is no need to get these anymore:
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Old 02-02-2002, 08:27 AM   #3
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Arrow Follow Up

Sometimes we get questions that others may have too so I like to post them.

Q:

> i saw you guys posted about the fumoto valve for oil
> drainage... my question is do you guys think it
> would get in the way of a skidplate? i'm just
> wondering as i'd like to put both on my RS... any
> help would be greatly appreciated... thanks
>
> Very Respectfully,
> AJ Hinners

A:

I have a valve on both my legacy and RS (well had one on the RS till I had to put an oil temp gauge probe in it's place). Both cars have skid plates too. How close is the plate to the oil drain plug. You'll need some room for it to clear. (see above pic) I originally got the valve with a nipple but it stuck out too far below the skid plate for me. I ended up cutting it down pretty short (the nipple) but was still able to get some hose on there to direct the oil flow. 3/8 gas line hose works best I've found. Still, in the end the oil flow is so controllable I never did have to use the hose. The valve with the nipple is only a little more expensive and if you can cut it down if needed it may be worth the trouble depending on how big the opening in the plate is (if it has one that is)

Hope this helps,

Peaty
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Old 05-10-2002, 08:54 PM   #4
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Arrow Update

I have gotten some questions regarding the best way to get the lever to point up and not down when the valve is tight. I must have lucked out with the 3 installs I've done. I tried a few times installing the valve and got it right. Some have said they had to use the fiber washer and a crush washer to get it to point up. I have not done this myself but I understand that they have not had any leaking problems.
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Old 06-18-2002, 06:14 AM   #5
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Exclamation Update: Pics of intrusion

Very good info from 8Complex on the i-club:


Fumoto Valve - Pics of intrusion
Pan on workbench... you can see how far down the pan bolt hole is compared to the bottom surface of the pan.

If you're not familiar with this unit, it replaces the stock oil pan bolt so that you can just turn the valve and drain oil. Really a great piece, but it leaves oil in the bottom of the pan because the threads are too long.
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Old 06-18-2002, 06:15 AM   #6
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Pan with valve next to it... for thread comparison's sake.
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Old 06-18-2002, 06:16 AM   #7
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Stock washer (on my finger) versus the crushed crush washer on the valve. Don't remember why it was swapped... think the dealership did it when my first motor went.
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Old 06-18-2002, 06:17 AM   #8
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The real intrusion. You can see 3 full threads sticking into the inside of the pan. I noticed this causing almost 1/4" qt. of oil not to drain from the pan when I first took the pan off with it installed.
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Old 06-18-2002, 06:24 AM   #9
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Thumbs up got info from the Mfr.

i-clubs rex_ruthor supplies this tid bit:

I received a reply from their customer service department. They said they were not aware that there were oil pans that the FumotoValve protruded through and thanked me for bringing it to their attention. They said they had tested mostly domestics for fit and that was done when they first started selling the product.

They said they will have their dealers modify their marketing materials to reflect that some model of cars might have pans through which the valve protrudes.

They also offered tips as people have mentioned here.

1. more washers
2. grind it down
3. Return product for a full refund through the dealer you bought it if you are really unhappy about it.

I am opting for 1 or 2 because i think its a great product and much better design and quality than the Fram SureDrain.
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Old 06-18-2002, 06:25 AM   #10
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Thumbs up

Guys, this is some very good info. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 06-18-2002, 08:15 AM   #11
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Another solution could be to install the valve, note how it sits and mark the lowest spot that faces down. Take it out and use a hack saw to make a notch 3-4 threads deep at that lowest point. This would make a channel to let out the oil.
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Old 07-05-2002, 02:28 PM   #12
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OK I was changing the oil on our Legacy Outback today and wanted to put the notch in the oil drain valve to make sure I got all the oil out. I drained all the oil w/ the drain plug till it stopped dripping (for the most part, I think it will drip forever) closed the lever marked the low part of the valve and then removed the plug to make the notch. I have to say not an awful lot came out after I took the plug out. I'd say what 10 - 15cc is all. Not a big deal but still it's very easy to notch the plug w/ a small rat tail file like I did. It's brass so it dosen't take long. Besides it's best to get all the dirty oil out that is possible. To determine where to put the notch first screw in the valve and tighten it to where you normally would for use. Then mark the lowest spot with a scribe or something. Take it out and notch it down about 3 or 4 threads. Since there are filings all over the place I washed the valve with soap and water. I opened it and washed it out well then dried it off.
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Old 07-05-2002, 02:28 PM   #13
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another angle
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Old 08-04-2002, 01:12 PM   #14
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Drain vlave on H-6

Put one on our Outback VDC with the flat 6
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Old 08-04-2002, 01:13 PM   #15
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another angle
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Old 02-12-2003, 04:01 AM   #16
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Update

Wingless Wonder provided us with this good info.:

-----

Hi, Peaty. I ordered my Fumoto Oil Drain Valve from the Lube Specialist.

http://lubespecialist.com/

They are a couple of dollars cheaper than any other place I've found and service is fast. They also stock those optional stainless steel clips for locking the Fumoto lever in place, though my brother has never had a problem with rocks striking the lever while driving.

--
^ww^
-----------

Thanks for the info.

Peaty 2/12/03
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Old 07-20-2003, 09:53 AM   #17
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A side note on installing these. I know it's mentioned above but I want to reiterate:

It's important to get the valve's lever facing a good direction for ease of flipping it open. If it's faced wrong, you could be twisting your arm kind of funky and make it so it's tough to do and also end up having your arm under the opening and risk getting splashed by hot oil. Trust me I know. I've installed quite a few of these over the years for myself and others. I found that there is some flexibility in where the lever ends up facing by which and how many washers are put under the valve. The valve comes with a blue composite washer and there are the crush washers you are supposed to use under the OEM drain plug. I've done it every which way to get the valve facing the proper way. Just the blue washer, just the crush washer and both together. One of these combinations will most likely work to get it right and I've never had a problem with leaks either. Just a heads up.

Peaty
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Old 10-12-2006, 07:06 AM   #18
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Thumbs up Update info

I've moved my old drain valve to our new B9 Tribeca and it works fine there too.
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Old 02-25-2009, 07:21 PM   #19
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update

sev123 was nice enough to send me some info and pics

Quote:
I just installed my Fumoto valve tonight on my
2005 WRX.

You might suggest another way to notch the "extra" threaded area if folks
have access to an endmill.

I just ran it twice across, resulting in 4 channels for the oil to flow out.
Attached are pictures.

Worked nicely for me!

Thanks,

Sev
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