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Old 11-08-2009, 05:38 PM   #1
skimobile
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Kartboy Botox Bolts (Rear Subframe Lockdown Bolts)

I just want to add a piece of info. on installing This Kartboy rear subframe lockdown bolt kit.
The installation instructions are already posted elsewhere on this forum so I won't re-hash the same information.
I did want to add however that the installation instructions say to spray PB Blaster into the rear subframe lockdown bolt's mounting holes, clean out the holes with a q-tip, etc.,... install the bolt only (without mounting grommet), working the bolt in and out of the mounting hole with some more PB blaster untill the bolt installs smoothly.
Do yourself a BIG favor at this point...get the proper tap for this installation and TAP the holes before installing your bolts. That way you make SURE the threads are nice and clean for your install.
While doing this procedure on my car, the corresponding threaded mounting nut that is tacked to the cars inner framing broke free while trying to thread the bolt in
In order to get to the nut, we had to cut a hole in the upper frame/skin in the rear trunk to get to the lower inner frame/skin where the nut broke free of its tack weld. Then we had to tack the nut back on and re-weld new piece of plate in the trunk.
It turned a 10 minute job into a 3 hour job
You might be OK with just some PB blaster and a Q-Tip but do you really want to take that chance?
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Old 11-08-2009, 06:54 PM   #2
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Good tip, i kinda wondered if it would be easier to just grab a tap and run it through then use a q-tip. Now i know for sure lol
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:45 PM   #3
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Cool Critical info....

So what is the 'proper' tap to use?
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Old 11-09-2009, 06:00 AM   #4
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looks like m14x1.5 but i'm not sure without someone measuring it up as i don't have one in hand to measure

spend the extra $5 and get a BRAND NAME tap. doall, ymw, snapon, mac etc, a thread chasing tap is different from a bottom tap or a taper tap. thread chasing = for paint and junk removal, not rust and dirt/rocks

what's cheaper, 3 hours of labor with cutting welding and knuckle busting, or 7 minutes of thread chasing with a $12 tap?
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Old 12-14-2009, 10:33 AM   #5
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I have a set of these bolts, but, after some reading i have to question whether the body in that area is made to take the stress that the subframe will put on those two body nuts. As understand it, those threaded holes were used during manufacturing process.
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Old 12-18-2009, 04:13 PM   #6
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Good info here:

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulle...you-faq-32200/

I'm also curious why the Perrin's are shorter versus the Kartboy's

Last edited by northshore; 12-18-2009 at 04:20 PM..
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Old 02-01-2010, 07:35 PM   #7
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thanks for the heads up about the threads, i am installing a set while the suspension is this week
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Old 02-07-2010, 06:20 AM   #8
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Sent an email to kartboy, the tap you'll need is 12x1.25



Quote:
Originally Posted by tom
Hi
its 12X1.25mm same as the shifters and lugnuts.

Tom
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Old 02-07-2010, 06:23 AM   #9
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man, i put in a set, and i never had a problem, i guess its cuz i live in texas and we have no snow, or salt on the roads
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Old 03-15-2010, 04:50 PM   #10
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Just finished the install of a set on my07 and have to say it was easy. I didn't use a tap but went really slowly with the blaster and the bolt.
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Old 03-16-2010, 04:27 AM   #11
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What is the advantages of the bolts....why didn't subaru leave them in?
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:28 AM   #12
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The firm up the chasis of the car a bit more, not really sure why subaru didn't leave them in.
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Old 03-16-2010, 09:23 AM   #13
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It's just odd that nobody has confirmed their findings nor has a manufacturer tested their claims.
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Old 03-16-2010, 09:26 AM   #14
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I thought they were used in the manufacturing process then removed....
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:47 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenscholl View Post
What is the advantages of the bolts....why didn't subaru leave them in?

My understanding is that, when installed, there's more harshness and NVH on the street since the rubber subframe mounts are being "bypassed" somewhat.

I have the kartboy bolts, but don't keep them installed. I may for HPDEs, but I am skeptical that the receiver bolts welded to the underbody were designed to take the stress that these bolts subject them to. If they were only designed for manufacturing alignment purposes, then maybe not.
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Old 04-06-2010, 09:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmiller2002 View Post
My understanding is that, when installed, there's more harshness and NVH on the street since the rubber subframe mounts are being "bypassed" somewhat.

I have the kartboy bolts, but don't keep them installed. I may for HPDEs, but I am skeptical that the receiver bolts welded to the underbody were designed to take the stress that these bolts subject them to. If they were only designed for manufacturing alignment purposes, then maybe not.
I'm wondering how long people have had them in, and if anyone's had an issue with them warping, or breaking loose? I'm certainly interested in a set as I find myself buying Kartboy bushings left and right now..
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Old 04-08-2010, 04:40 PM   #17
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I have had the bolts installed in my 02 for a little over a year. They are holding up great and have not had any issues.

When installing them, i cleaned the holes with q-tips in between using a tap to clean the threads.

Great upgrade. Next time i'm under the back, i'll take a pic.
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Old 04-13-2010, 12:54 PM   #18
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I will be needing this soon! THanks
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Old 04-21-2010, 07:33 PM   #19
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I've had not issues with mine since the install.
I can't say exactly how much handling performance is attributable to the bolts alone since I installed them at the same time I installed the "race hardness" outrigger bushings and rear diff. bushings.
These 3 items together provide a real improvement in handling but at the expense of drivetrain noise/vibration, most noticable during throttle lift while in gear.
I'm not sorry in the least that I installed them. Just know what you're gettig into if you install Kartboy Sexy Rear End package.
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Old 06-01-2010, 12:13 AM   #20
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As everyone else has said Mr tap is your friend (12x1.25)... the bolts just slipped in after running the tap through the threads... especially on a 9 year old car with the salty roads round here in winter the rust/gunge was not going to go any where just using a q-tip!



I've not noticed any difference in NVH and the handling is much improved coming out of turns.
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Old 06-01-2010, 12:25 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Telemarker74 View Post
As everyone else has said Mr tap is your friend (12x1.25)... the bolts just slipped in after running the tap through the threads... especially on a 9 year old car with the salty roads round here in winter the rust/gunge was not going to go any where just using a q-tip!



I've not noticed any difference in NVH and the handling is much improved coming out of turns.

+1 for self-cleaning taps. i love those. never have to turn backwards to eject chips, just keep turning.
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