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The Modfather
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I don't have an STi to install these on yet so I just have a few pics for now. I am using the links on my Forester but due to the larger bar I'm using I had to install it a little differently. The nice thing about the KB links besides being a lot stronger, they are also longer and the bar will not flip (I tried to get mine to flip at full suspension droop but could not)
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Peaty cheeze@sunflower.com 2010 Legacy 3.6R Limited 2006 B9 Tribeca - 7 pass Ltd (wifes ride) 1999 Miata - Daily Runabout Last edited by Peaty; 02-28-2006 at 08:04 PM.. |
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The Modfather
Join Date: Jan 2002
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This is what I mean about flipping the bar. Pic one shows how the link/bar sits when the suspension is loaded with the full weight of the car. Pic 2 shows the suspension unloaded or the wheels off the ground, notice the angle of the links and bar end. The third pic shows how the bar can "flip" the links backwards. Lowering the car with the links flipped will cause them to bend around the lateral arm in a "C" shape. This is from my Forester but the same thing can happen to the STi from what I understand.
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Peaty cheeze@sunflower.com 2010 Legacy 3.6R Limited 2006 B9 Tribeca - 7 pass Ltd (wifes ride) 1999 Miata - Daily Runabout |
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The Modfather
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Lawrence, KS
Posts: 6,154
Threads: 651
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Thanked 836 Times in 461 Posts
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Groaned at 11 Times in 10 Posts
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For the install I will use pics from my Forester but the STi should be similar
What you will need for the rear link install: Ramps - To raise the car. The suspension must be loaded on level ground to do this install easly and safely. You can try to do this w/o ramps on the ground but it will be tough. Safety Goggles - When you work under the car stuff will fall in your eyes, be smart and put some safety glasses on. 2 - 14mm open end wrenches or one open end and a socket - To remove the OEM links. 2 - 16mm open end wrenches or one open end and a deep socket - To install the new links. Optional (and a good idea): Penetrating Oil - To spray the OEM links to make it easier to get the nuts off. Mine were kind of rusty.
__________________
Peaty cheeze@sunflower.com 2010 Legacy 3.6R Limited 2006 B9 Tribeca - 7 pass Ltd (wifes ride) 1999 Miata - Daily Runabout |
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#4 | ||||||||||||||
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The Modfather
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Lawrence, KS
Posts: 6,154
Threads: 651
Thanks: 110
Thanked 836 Times in 461 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 11 Times in 10 Posts
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Like I said I don't have an STi handy to put them on so I will describe how to do the rest with a pic from my Forester with them installed in the right spot.
With both OEM links out now you just need to install the KB links with a washer under the head of the bolt and under the nut. The nuts are self locking so you won't need to use any Locktite on the threads. It should look something like the pic below. The suggested torque spec for then new link is 36 ft/lbs.
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Peaty cheeze@sunflower.com 2010 Legacy 3.6R Limited 2006 B9 Tribeca - 7 pass Ltd (wifes ride) 1999 Miata - Daily Runabout Last edited by Peaty; 02-28-2006 at 08:42 PM.. |
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#5 | ||||||||||||||
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The Modfather
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Lawrence, KS
Posts: 6,154
Threads: 651
Thanks: 110
Thanked 836 Times in 461 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 11 Times in 10 Posts
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Good info From antidote11:
I just installed a set of the rear Kartboy endlinks on my 06. These were installed on a COBB rear sway bar. The reason I am sending you this email is because the washer side of the bolt is actually flipped when installing these on a COBB bar. The endlink goes to the inside of the bar, so the top washer bolt actrually faces in, instead of out as noted on your page. I figure this will clear up any confusion that others might have. Thanks man !! Ryan - antidote11
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Peaty cheeze@sunflower.com 2010 Legacy 3.6R Limited 2006 B9 Tribeca - 7 pass Ltd (wifes ride) 1999 Miata - Daily Runabout |
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