Kartboy STi Short shifter install

Peaty · 06-27-2004, 07:23 PM

The STi short shifter install is very different than the other Impreza KB short shifters. It's more involved but the results are worth the effort. You would be well served to enlist help from a friend as a second set of hands are needed. This mod really should be done along with the KB STi Shifter Bushings to get the full benefit of a nice positive shifting STi. Bushing install here:

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3791

Kartboy parts can be had at this site:

www.kartboy.com

What you will need:

Snap ring pliers: (internal) to remove shifter socket.

Some Q-Tips: To remove the grease from around the snap ring and also to dab grease on various parts

Grease: to use inside the shifter socket and inside the lock out ring. I used white lithium grease. You could most likely re-use some of the grease you remove from the socket getting at the snap ring.

12mm open ends: to remove nut and bolt from shifter pivot

10mm Socket: to turn metal plate 180°

3/32" Punch: to remove reverse lock out ring's pin

Hammer: to drive out pin with punch

Phillips screw driver: to remove boot holder stay

Shop towels or similar: to rest under shifter when you remove lock ring pin. This will keep you from marking up the shifter.

Ramps or Jack stands: (I prefer ramps) to get under car and fix the reverse cable lever to the extended position to make it possible to get the pin back in end.

Peaty 6/27/04

Here is a pic of the shifter and a comparo of the STi shifter and the KB STi SS:

Peaty · 06-27-2004, 07:44 PM

The first thing to do is, if you are going to use ramps to get the car in the air, drive on the ramps now because it will be very tricky when the shifter is out

Start by removing the shift knob turning it counter (anti) clock wise. Unsnap the little snap that holds the shift boot to the shifter rod stay. Now to remove center console so you can get at the shifter. The Console has two parts you need to remove the back part that holds the three switches and the front that has the shift boot. Start by opening the arm rest and pulling up the e-brake. Next firmly tug up on the back section (see pics) and it will come up. It's held in place by some pins and clips. Once it's off undo the three harness plugs buy squeezing the clip on each one.

Peaty · 06-27-2004, 07:48 PM

Set the rear section aside and now grasp the back part of the front section and gently tug it up, it too is held in with clips and will come right off.

Peaty · 06-27-2004, 07:54 PM

Cut off the wire tie that holds the cable in place, then you can remove the pivot bolt. This needs two 12mm open ends or a socket to undo. Once the bolt is out you can move the lever towards the back of the car to get at the snap ring.

I'm also attaching a pic of the proper punch to use to remove the pin for the next step.

Peaty · 06-27-2004, 08:10 PM

With a Q-tip remove the grease from around the base of the shifter at the socket. You are looking for the holes the snap ring pliers go in. After you find them remove the snap ring. You will need to use some straight ends, I tried some bent ones but I couldn't get in there. Have some shop towels handy because there is a fair amount of grease and you don't want to get it on your seats. After you have extracted the snap ring, put some shop towels down in the center of the console area. Then pull up and remove the shifter along with the ball and socket. The socket is held on with some O-rings. You can wrap a paper towel around the basket, pull it off the bottom and set it aside. You'll need it later to install on the KB shifter. Be careful to not drop the O-rings anywhere. Make sure you have two of them. Set the shifter in the center of the console area on the towels. The cable is still attached at this point and you will need to remove the pin to release it. Have a compatriot hold the shifter so it's steady and the pin's hole is facing up. With the punch (make sure you use a 3/32" one) proceed to tap out the pin. If you use the wrong punch you will enlarge the hole and also put burrs on the inside of the shaft. You can see what happens if you do I attached a pic.

Be careful with the punch as the material around the outside of the lock out lever is only plastic and you can mark it up easily if you aren't careful

Peaty · 06-27-2004, 08:14 PM

A few more pics to help in this area

Peaty · 06-27-2004, 08:24 PM

After you have the pin out slide off the lock ring and spring that is under it. Next remove the boot stay by removing the two Phillips screws. The stay will slide up and off. Slide the cable out of the shifter and bring the shifter to a bench to swap parts. Swap over a small rubber ring shown in the pic. Remove the metal bushing and the two hard rubber ones at the pivot point. These are in there snug. I used the pass through bolt to push against them and force them out.

Peaty · 06-27-2004, 08:29 PM

Put the boot stay on the new shifter and secure it with the two screws, be careful to not go crazy tight, it's just plastic and will strip. Next slide on the spring. With a Q-tip put some grease on the inside surface the the lock out ring. Slide the lock out ring on after the spring. You can put the socket basket on the bottom too or wait till you get the pin in the rod.

Peaty · 06-27-2004, 08:59 PM

Now for the fun part

Get the car safely in the air and use jack stands or ramps. You need to have the lock-out cable extended in order to get the pin back in. So have someone in the car pull on the cable's end while you are under the car. Have them pull the cable in and out a few times so you can see the lever on the tranny moving. Once you locate it. It's on the drivers side of the tranny just follow the cable up to it. Have them pull the cable out as far as they can and hold it in place. Put something between the tranny and cable lever to prevent the cable from retracting. I used a doubled up bit of fuel hose. I'm sure a screw driver handle or something similar will work. When you get it up in there tell them to release the cable's end and it should be out enough for you to get the pin in the end.

Now that you have that sorted out, place the shifter back where you had it to remove the pin. Look at the little metal end of the cable and you will see there is a hole in there. You need to slide the cable inside the shifter and align that hole with the one in the shifter and the lock-out. Good lighting helps a lot here. I used the punch to get everything lined up and put the pin in from the other side. This is tricky so take your time. Once you have it lined up tap the pin in using the drift pin. Again you'll need the help of your friend to do this. Make the pin flush with the opening.

Peaty · 06-27-2004, 09:13 PM

After you get the pin in place you can put the shifter up in the socket. If it's not already on put the bottom socket on the ball and slather it with some grease. I used white lithium grease. When you place it in it's spot make sure the O-rings are seated properly. Mine had a tendency to slip. Then re-install the snap ring. Now put the bolt through the shifter pivot point and snug that down. It only needs 9 ft/lbs of torque, too tight and you will crush the bushings. That will make the shifter very stiff. After that's done secure the cable to the shift lever with a wire tie

Peaty · 06-27-2004, 09:19 PM

For good measure we flipped the surround plate 180°, it was close up at the top right in first gear. It only takes a few min to do. Remove the 4 - 10mm bolts holding it down, bend the tabs that will now be facing front up a little at about a 45° angle and bolt it down. Make sure you get the rubber nibs in the holes at the top and sides. You only need a little torque on these bolts as shown in the pic.

Peaty · 06-27-2004, 09:23 PM

Just about done, now go under the car and remove the item you put to keep the cable from going back. Then re install the console parts starting with the front part, plug the three harnesses back in place in the rear half and press it into place. Put the boot back on the sifter stay and screw the knob back on. That's it your done with the shifter

Peaty

Peaty · 03-27-2005, 10:29 PM

MY 05 shifter install update from ScoobaSTieve:

---------------------------------

Subject: Kartboy SS install feedback for MY '05 STi.

Just installed my K4RT30Y SS for the '05 STi. First of all, let me thank PEATY for the AWESOME instructions without which I would have spent $100 or so having Subaru put it in for me.

Ok, couple of things...

First, to take apart the center console, you need to remove 4 screws. Lift up the lid to the storage area and you will see two screws there on the side closest to the shifter. Next, you must grab the lighter gray trim around the shifter boot (the portion that is closest to the BACK of the car) and pull up firmly, then slide it kind of down and back to clear the front clips. Don't forget to unsnap the boot, and when you remove it, there is a grayish white clip with foam around one side of it that you have to disconnect (it goes to the cigarette lighter and trim lights). Then you will see 4 screws up by the climate control knobs. Unscrew the BOTTOM two screws. Now unsnap the boot around the emergency brake lever and pull it up. There are only 2 harnesses to disconnect (not three as with the '04 and older models), a white one and a blue one. The white one is a little hard to get off, I had to use a small flat head screw driver to keep the "tab" pushed in while I pulled the harn!
ess out of the socket. Now you have the center console apart, and the shifter exposed for work!

Second, let me reiterate a warning posted in the installlation link. DO NOT USE A PUNCH THAT IS TOO BIG!!! Don't be fooled by the size of the hole in the plastic part of the lockout collar. The hole in the plastic is MUCH bigger than the hole in the metal sleeve inside the lockout collar.

Third, be prepared to cuss and swear and throw things when putting the pin back in the lockout mechanism. IT IS VERY HARD. If you don't have something that is the EXACT size of the hole, it is very difficult to line everthing up to put the pin in. I used the shaft of a Q-Tip cut down to about 1.5" long. This was still a little small, but it worked. Here's what I did to get the pin back in and was much easier than trying to do it all at one time. First, tap the pin into the lockout collar just enough so that it stays in place but does not portrude much (micro inches I'm talking about, you get the idea). Then (a MAG light or similar good lighting source is paramount here) flip the shifter over and insert the Q-Tip shaft from the other side (do not push the pin out, if you do, start over). Then flip everything back over. You will notice that you have to rotate the entire shift lever to get the hole in the lockout cable to line up, as you cannot orient the cable once it is up in!
the shaft of the shifter. NOW you can tap the pin in from the other side. I found it MUCH easier if you support the shifter by both the shift boot and the threaded part by using small blocks of wood. Wood will not hurt anything and they are strong enough to give you a firm base to hammer on. Be advised, that you MAY have to move the collar slightly up or down to get it to align perfectly with the hole in the cable. It took me about 10-15 tries to get everything to line up, and I can bet that this will be an impossible task if someone does not hold the shifter steady for you. Like I said before, be fully prepared to cuss and scream and throw things in this step.

Lastly, there are instructions to turn the shift housing trim 180 degrees around. THIS IS IMPOSSIBLE WITHOUT MAJOR MODIFICATION TO THE PLATE! Due to the redesign of the '05 interior, there is a large plastic "tent" that prevents you from placing the tangs under it, bent or otherwise. You might be able to remove them, but I don't know what they are for and I can't imagine they were put there for decoration. Do not even bother removing the gold screws. I can tell you however that there is a very small clearance between the linkage and the plate, but it WILL clear the plate (I was very rough when I tested this, there is NO way it will touch so don't worry about a rattle). I give it my "no rattle" gaurantee, as I just got back from my test drive and it was quiet as a church mouse.

Other than that, all the instructions were easy to follow. All told, I did it in the dark (illuminated by dome lights and flashlights) in about 2.5 hours. By far, the longest and most frustrating step was putting the roller pin back into the reverse lockout mechanism.

After driving the car following the K4RT30Y SS install, I give this mod "2 snaps up in a circle with a TWIST!" Highly recommended... save up your pennies and go with this. Gonna try the bushing install next.

Peaty · 06-15-2005, 05:09 PM

Updated info and heads up from Jitenshakun:

1. When using the proper punch (3/32") you will probably enlargen the pin a small amount, which will cause the reverse lockout ot bind. Its a good idea to pinch the pin a bit with pliers before putting it back in.

2. To save some time with getting the pin back in align everything by putting the punch in through the back and tapping the pin in on the other side. Once its started and through the cable the use the punch to pop it in the rest of the way. Another technique is to feed a straightened paper clip though and slide the pin along it. Either one of these will help you get the pin in quite easily.

Kevin

Peaty · 06-23-2005, 06:31 AM

Some new info from lordzappo:

I completed the install per your instructions, everything seemed to work. Then in fifth gear i get a clicking and banging.

Tom @ Kartboy tells me the second tie wrap i received ties the shifter lockout cable to the shifter stay underneath the car, above the drive shaft, and prevents this rattle.

Peaty · 10-30-2005, 07:03 PM

I did an 05 Sti today and have a few updates.

I found that I only had to remove the shifter boot trim and not the whole console to get the shifter installed. Just by removing the ash tray then tugging up at the back part of the bezel by the e-brake I could tug it up and off. Then unplug the cig lighter and remove the bulb with a quarter twist. When you go to remove the pin, just be sure to use a towel under the OEM lever so you don't scratch the console.

Peaty · 10-30-2005, 07:05 PM

If you are going to be installing the rear shifter bushing too, you will want to remove the OEM shifter but hold off on putting the new one in until after you do the bushings under the car, it will be a lot easier. Remove the shift lever, then put in the new KB shift lever.

10/30/05

TrackDayHookey · 02-01-2006, 08:12 PM

I installed a short shifter in an '05 STi today. It was Brand C

, but the tricks below should still apply to any shifter install.

The first trick is an easier way to get the reverse lockout cable hooked back up.

Here's how I did it. Sorry, no pictures, but this should be easy enough to follow.

1) After everything is taken apart, thread a 2 foot long piece of thin, strong line (I used a fishing line called Fireline) through the hole in the end of the cable fitting (where the roll pin goes). Pretty much like you'd thread a needle.

2) Fold the line over and thread the ends together through a drinking straw. The straw will make it easier to get the line up through the shift lever.

3) When you install the new shift lever, run the straw (with the line in it) up through the shift lever and out the top. Once the lockout cable is all the way in, the straw can be removed. The fishing line will be hanging out the top of the shifter.

4) Continue with the re-assembly, sliding the various parts down the lever (spring, reverse lift slider, etc.).

5) Here's the fun part. Pull *both* sides of the fishing line to pull the reverse cable up. Take a 1/16" punch or allen wrench and put it all the way through the reverse slider, shift lever and the hole in the reverse cable (there is enough room for both it and the line).

6) Verify that the punch/wrench is actually in the right place by pulling up on the slider. Everybody should move just like you are going to go for reverse.

7) Pull out the fishing line. No turning back.

8) Slide the roll pin over the punch/wrench. Tap it in or use pliers to press it in. A little wiggling of the punch/wrench will help things line up as it goes. As the roll pin goes in, the punch/wrench can just slide along with it. Don't shoot the punch out with the first few taps by accident, or you will hate yourself.

9) Once the roll pin is all the way in, remove the punch or wrench. Verify that the reverse lockout works like it should.

You still need to get under the car to zip tie the cable away from the drive shaft. But this is quick and easy compared to fiddling with the reverse mechanism, and you won't need a helper.

The second trick involves getting rid of mystery friction in the reverse lockout.

When I got done, I found that the slider only moved back slowly on its own. It turns out the end of the cable was dragging against the inside of the shift lever.

Tapping the roll pin through enough to push it out the other side 1/16", and then tapping it back, fixed the problem.

Good luck with it,

Gordon

hossamk · 02-02-2006, 09:36 AM

How much was the difference in the acceleration or in the 0-100 caused by speeding up the shift time after installing the short shifter?

skierjmh · 02-03-2006, 10:48 PM

a short shifter is the first mod anyone should do IMO. you will notice a distinct diff in the speed of shifting... I installed a GFB - shorter than the STi shifter + linkage and it was noticeably different. instead of waiting for the shifter I'm now waiting on the clutch and gas engagement for acceleration.

oh yeah - the STi shifter trim makes a huge diff too.

bling................

Peaty · 02-06-2008, 05:28 PM

Hint form: stratsandaks

Quote:

I don't know if you want to add this to your install FAQ or not but on my '07 STi the reverse lockout lever that is on the tranny has about a 3mm hole drilled into it. I stuck a 3mm allen wrench through this hole to keep the lever in place which in turn keeps hole in the cable end lined up with the bottom of the milled slot in the shifter. It made tapping the pin back through reverse lock out collar quick and drama free.

-John

02-01-2006, 08:12 PM	#18
TrackDayHookey Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts	Short Shifter Install Tricks I installed a short shifter in an '05 STi today. It was Brand C , but the tricks below should still apply to any shifter install. The first trick is an easier way to get the reverse lockout cable hooked back up. Here's how I did it. Sorry, no pictures, but this should be easy enough to follow. 1) After everything is taken apart, thread a 2 foot long piece of thin, strong line (I used a fishing line called Fireline) through the hole in the end of the cable fitting (where the roll pin goes). Pretty much like you'd thread a needle. 2) Fold the line over and thread the ends together through a drinking straw. The straw will make it easier to get the line up through the shift lever. 3) When you install the new shift lever, run the straw (with the line in it) up through the shift lever and out the top. Once the lockout cable is all the way in, the straw can be removed. The fishing line will be hanging out the top of the shifter. 4) Continue with the re-assembly, sliding the various parts down the lever (spring, reverse lift slider, etc.). 5) Here's the fun part. Pull both sides of the fishing line to pull the reverse cable up. Take a 1/16" punch or allen wrench and put it all the way through the reverse slider, shift lever and the hole in the reverse cable (there is enough room for both it and the line). 6) Verify that the punch/wrench is actually in the right place by pulling up on the slider. Everybody should move just like you are going to go for reverse. 7) Pull out the fishing line. No turning back. 8) Slide the roll pin over the punch/wrench. Tap it in or use pliers to press it in. A little wiggling of the punch/wrench will help things line up as it goes. As the roll pin goes in, the punch/wrench can just slide along with it. Don't shoot the punch out with the first few taps by accident, or you will hate yourself. 9) Once the roll pin is all the way in, remove the punch or wrench. Verify that the reverse lockout works like it should. You still need to get under the car to zip tie the cable away from the drive shaft. But this is quick and easy compared to fiddling with the reverse mechanism, and you won't need a helper. The second trick involves getting rid of mystery friction in the reverse lockout. When I got done, I found that the slider only moved back slowly on its own. It turns out the end of the cable was dragging against the inside of the shift lever. Tapping the roll pin through enough to push it out the other side 1/16", and then tapping it back, fixed the problem. Good luck with it, Gordon

02-02-2006, 09:36 AM	#19
hossamk Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts	how much is the difference? How much was the difference in the acceleration or in the 0-100 caused by speeding up the shift time after installing the short shifter?

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Mega Kartboy Super Deals	kastle	Vendor Classifieds	0	08-12-2008 01:22 PM
Kartboy STi Short shifter install	Peaty	Kartboy Stuff	15	02-06-2008 05:30 PM
Kartboy Kustoms Forester Short Shifter	Peaty	Kartboy Stuff	14	05-07-2005 05:47 PM
Go Fast Bits adjustible short shifter install	Worxman02	Drivetrain	0	03-06-2005 02:24 PM
Kartboy Short Shifter Install	kastle	Drivetrain	0	07-17-2002 03:57 PM

02-03-2006, 10:48 PM	#20
skierjmh Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 8 Threads: 4 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts	a short shifter is the first mod anyone should do IMO. you will notice a distinct diff in the speed of shifting... I installed a GFB - shorter than the STi shifter + linkage and it was noticeably different. instead of waiting for the shifter I'm now waiting on the clutch and gas engagement for acceleration. oh yeah - the STi shifter trim makes a huge diff too. bling................

Sponsored Links
ScoobyMods Advertisement