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Old 01-24-2005, 06:19 PM   #1
ashwinearl
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Legacy Wagon : Installing IPD Rear Sway Bar Kit

PRO:
-Incredible value for the money
-Price includes bar, endlinks, and replacement bushings for the mounts but uses the stock mounts
-looks fine
-easy installation
-excellent customer service with emails, calls answered promptly

CON:
This version required a slight mod to the bottom of the trunk. Newer versions will fix this problem

NOTE:-
Kit does not include replacement mounts like their other kits for the WRX or Imprezza. This made installation much easier though. IPD says that the stock mounts on the Legacy wagon do NOT need to be upgraded based on their testing.

The web site wasn't clear about this fact. IPD has since updated the web site. But beaware that certain kits do not come with new mounts.

Based on earlier reviews from Subie gal, I ordered an IPD rear sway bar kit

Ordered direct from www.ipdusa.com
http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.as...38&RootID=1414

regular price is $157.95, and it was onsale for $142 or something, with around $20 shipping.

Keep in mind that the Whiteline, considered to be one of the better values for swaybars, is around $160 for the bar alone not including endlinks. So price wise this IPD bar is a great value.

The kit for my particular vehicle - 1998 Legacy Station Wagon included the bar, endlinks, bushings to be used with the stock mounts, some serious marine grease and bolts/washers

There were no installation instructions with the kit, but I emailed Chris at IPD and he sent me .pdf of instructions that were written for their WRX kit. The instructions are essentially the same except I could ignore all the parts about replacing the mounts.

Which made the installation an absolute breeze, as the one thing you see people bitch about over and over with rear sway bar installations is in getting access to the mount on the passenger side.

The .pdf instructions are VERY very well done, with pictures and explainations on how to get access to the passenger side mount with instructions for moving the charcoal canister and everything. Which I could ignore.

It is quite clear that these guys did their homework in developing the product.

Tools needed:
-12mm socket
-14mm socket
-14mm wrench
-ramps, or jack/jack stands.

I actually removed the stock bar without any jacks/stands, thinking I could do the whole thing w/o them.

I was able to remove the bar, but could not fanagle the new bar on with it on the ground. After a trip to advanced auto for some Rhino ramps it went on fine.

It did touch the bottom of my trunk. After the second day of use I started to hear a knock that sounded like the sheet metal of the trunk popping. I think the bar is pushing in on the material and when it releases the sheet metal pops back. I talked to IPD and this was their response :

Quote:
"Ashwin... hey there.. I spoke to Rallitek about this, they said that they smack that portion it tags just a mm or 2. I have a car coming in to look at it. What happened is our old bar used to have welded ends where you adjust the bar on it, that made the bar sit about 3/4" lower, once we started to forge the end of the bar, it brought it up so not it taps the bottom of the trunk. I'm sorry for all this you are going through. One of our largest customers did not tell this to us... Rallitek installs tons of these, they said that they just smack the trunk a bit, I went WHAT!!!!!! you needed to tell us this stuff, I dont want customers doing that! So we are in the middle of fixing this problem. I will let you know when it is fixed. YOu can smack it, it will be fine. Thank you for all your help."
I am going to pound in the trunk material a hair.

The kit comes with a film canister of some serious marine grease. This stuff gets EVERYWHERE so be aware.

The 1998 Legacy only has one 12mm bolt on the mounts, and then two on the endlinks.

The endlinks are NOT symetrical, and as indicated in the instructions, install them with the longer side down.

The kit comes with some cup washers that go on the top bolt of the endlink. I was slightly confused on the orientation of it. But I am not good on working on cars, and can screw anything up.

An email to Chris at IPD provided more info. Here is part of his response

Quote:
To answer your question the cup washer should lip around the blue bushing... so the bushing should sit inside the washer.
Final tightenting was performed with the car off the ramps on level ground.

Everything went on really easy and bolted up fine.

The bar as 3 settings. I set it to the middle setting.

The only other upgrade to my vehicle's suspension is some stock WRX wheels/RE-92 tires.

I'm not a racer, and don't have any other reference other than this stock vehicle.

All I can say is that it corners amazing. It is literally a totally different car, and has transformed this granola, hippy station wagon into a seriously fun vehicle for scooting around town.

It has 3 holes for playing around with, and the instructions provide info on how to adjust it.

Conclusion:

Incredible value for someone looking to upgrade their vehicle w/o tons of $$

Here are some pictures of the installed bar:

Bar touching bottom of trunk. I will pound in the material a little.



IPD endlinks that come with the kit. Great upgrade over stock



Stock mount bracket with supplied IPD replacement bushing. Only held on by one 12mm bolt.


Quite a change from this stock bar:
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access, bar, blue, clear, corners, easy, endlinks, fix, info, installing, instructions, ipd, kit, legacy, lower, mod, rear, replacement, sale, suspension, sway, trunk, version, wagon, wheels, whiteline, wrx

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