Mo_Boost Forester Quick Release Rear Strut bar

Peaty · 08-29-2005, 06:39 PM

Edit update: 2-27-06:

I've added to the tool what is needed to do the install for the full production inverted V brace. The first part of the install is the same, the attaching of the hats to the strut tower. If you have just the single bar version then that is all you need to do. If you get the full brace continue on for the details

Also, I've measured the SF Forester and as far as I can tell this bar will work for that too.

Peaty
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This rear strut bar is still in the Prototype stage. I've been beta testing it for a few weeks now. There is a possibility that there will be a "V" brace style version. I've been running with the single standard style and can feel it working when I make quick turns. Turn in feels a touch quicker.

The install is pretty simple, the nice part about the bar is when installed it's invisible when you have the shade on. Even with the shade open it's almost impossible to see. The best part is you can remove it in a few seconds.

What you need to install:

Drill w/ 2" hole saw - To make the opening for the tower cap

12mm Socket - I found a deep socket to work best

Torque Wrench - This is a MUST if you are working with strut tower bolts. Anymore than the suggested torque - 14.5 ft/lbs- and you may snap the stud.

6mm Hex socket - This will be used to make a mark and show you where to start drilling. However, from what I understand P-Rod will supply a tool to do this. My guess is a pencil will work too if you stick it in the hex opening.

Additional tools needed for the full brace:

6mm Hex socket or Allan - This will tighten both of the lower brace clamp bolts.

10mm wrench - to remove OEM tie down loop

Flat blade screw driver - To remove plastic button on OEM tie down

Razor Knife or similar - This will be used to cut the carpet from under the lower brace clamps.

Trim tool or Pliers - To remove button holding the rear floor foam

Drill - To drill hole for lower brace bolt I used a 21/64" but I think a 5/16" may work too

Sharpie or other marker - Mark where to drill

Center punch / hammer - To punch the drill spot to prevent walking of the bit.

Small block of wood - Optional to put by the strut where the bit will exit in the wheel well.

Silicone sealant - To put under the washer to prevent any rust from the drill hole.

13mm wrench - To tighten nut for the lower support bracket.

Start by removing the trim covering the strut cap. Do do this you need to put the rear seat backs down. The trim is held in place with some snap in tabs. firmly tugging it starting from the back will remove it. After it's off pull back and remove the carpet tab that covers the strut cap and nuts. Next remove the three 12mm nuts and take off the metal cap they are holding down. (you can set the metal cap aside as you will not be reusing it)

Now we need to make a mark on the top trim to show where the center will be to to drill the 2" hole. For that I used a 6mm hex socket. For the production model there is talk of a tool for this purpose. However a socket like I used or even a pencil will work. I put the socket in the top of the strut hole and then placed the trim part back in place. Be sure the trim is properly seated to be positive the mark is in the center. With the trim in place hit the top of the trim a few times with you hand to make an indentation. After removing the trim there should be a mark you can use to center the drill.

Peaty · 08-29-2005, 06:44 PM

With use the mark on the trim to drill the hole. I traced around the indentation with a Sharpie marker. With a 2" Cup saw drill from the inside out. There will be some plastic burrs that you will want to trim off so it looks nice. You can use a penknife or if you have the tool for that purpose that works best.

Peaty · 08-29-2005, 06:46 PM

Next place the strut braces cap over the three studs and torque down the nuts to 14.5 ft/lbs. The flat edge will face inwards.

Peaty · 08-29-2005, 06:55 PM

Now replace the trim and snap it back into place. I found it best to start at the end by the door hooking it on then wrap it around to the back side pushing it into place.

After you have installed the strut tops for both sides and replaced the trim, put the bar in place and put the pins through the holes. Give the bar some twists to afford some outward force. Not a lot but enough for it to be snug and pre-load the bar. Then twist the locking ring to prevent the bar from backing out. Pre-loading will help the bar do it's job better. The natural tendency is for the strut towers to want to move inward flexing the body. The bar will help reduce this.

As you can see the bar is nicely hidden. It's close to the shade but does not touch. The production parts will afford more clearance.

Peaty · 08-29-2005, 06:57 PM

If you have the rear and side cargo nets like me, they will still fit fine. As you can see by the pic the bar removal is very quick and easy.

Peaty 8-29-05

PS attached a pic of the V brace possibility

Peaty · 02-27-2006, 07:56 PM

Ok now that the production bar has arrived:

some details here:

http://tinyurl.com/qy8zb

The top cross bar hat install remains the same you use a different bar is all. The production hats are anodized black as are some of the other hardware parts. A few pics below

Peaty · 02-27-2006, 07:59 PM

OK one more warning for good measure - Do Not Overtighten the studs on the strut top.

Peaty · 02-27-2006, 08:12 PM

Well to start the install of the bottom brackets you will need to remove the floor sections from the back. The goal is to get to the rear tie down hooks so you can remove them and put the brackets in place

Start by dropping the seat backs flat, this will give you a place to put the rear section when you get to it. Next remove the cover over the jack and put it aside. Now you will need to remove the floor sections (with the little hatches) to the left, right and rear. The left and right side come off easly. Start by tugging on the rear section, the button will pop loose, the other end will then come out easly. Works the same for the left and right. (see pics) The rear section is a little harder, on the right side there is a push in button that needs to be pulled out. It's pretty tight so use a trim tool or pliers to get it out. (see pics) With that out you should be able to pull the rear section away. After I pulled it out I noticed a second push pin at the back center of the rear. It seems I pulled a bit of foam away from the part. It did not seem to effect anything though. I'm not sure how I would have easly gotten to it though. Below are some pics of the procedure for the three parts. Re-installing them is simple, the only thing you need to remember to do is push the pins back in at the back rear as indicated. They will snap in easly with some light pressure from a thumb.

Peaty · 02-27-2006, 08:27 PM

Next remove the tie down loop from each side, pry up the gray button head with a flat blade screwdriver then pry out the bottom part. Then remove the bolt with a 10mm wrench or socket. With the tie down off, use he new bracket as a templet (you can install the center screw and lower one if you like to hold it in place) mark around the bracket so you know where to cut and remove the carpet.

Peaty · 02-27-2006, 08:51 PM

After the carpet is cut out of the way, re attach the bracket, the black smaller bolt in the center and the silver larger one in the threaded lower hole, just to use to mark with your sharpie where to drill the hole. Poke your sharpie in the top hole for a good target. Remove the bracket and use a punch on the mark. Put your block of wood on the other side of the fender by the strut by the bottom of the perch. With a 21/64" bit drill your hole. Reinstall the bracket but this time put the longer silver bolt in the top hole where the new hole in the fender well is. Put the black bolt in the center again and make it snug.

I found this to be the tricky part. You have a choice here, you need to put the washer and nut on the bolt sticking out of the fender. You can do it the easy way by jacking up the car and removing the wheel or the hard way like I did and not take the wheel off. This may be why it was tricky for me

Either way, put a good blob of silicone sealant on one side of the large washer and get it on the bolt then the nut. I found it easier to pretend I was hugging the top of the tire, putting an arm around each side of the strut to get to the bolt end. It helps to have a friend here, someone to hold the inside bolt end from spinning. You need to use a 6mm hex on the inside and a 13mm open end in the fender. For this bolt you only need to make it snug not super tight. You are pulling two metal plates together so it do not over-do it. Just snug. Next tighten the black hex (also 6mm) nice and snug.

Peaty · 02-27-2006, 09:09 PM

After you have both sides done you can start to put the floor back together, it may be a good idea to vacuum up any metal burrs first though.

With the floor in place, you may notice that the rear most hatch (between the brackets) is tough to close. Just bend it a little in the center and it will shut. I debated taking a little material off of the door ends but for the amount of times I've opened that door I decided it was easier to bend the hatch a little to open and close it

Now you are ready to install the bars. Start by putting the top one in place. Try to keep the eye ends even as far as how many threads are showing. Hook one side in with a pin then turn the bar so the other side lines up with the hole so the pin fits in. Now turn the bar so it rotates in such a way as to put a slight outward force, not a lot just a little. The center attachment point needs to be facing down to accept the brace bars. Now tighten the top bars black jam nut. Next install the left lower bar first, it pretty much goes in the same way the top went in. It will take a little messing to get the eye sockets facing the proper direction. Do not tighten anything yet on this side, first install the other side. After the right side is in, put the cargo cover in place if you have one. Using the cargo cover as a sort of level, put a little outward force on the left bar by rotating it. Not to much just a little. Look at the top bar to be sure you didn't over extend the left bar making the top bar touch the bottom of the cover. Next rotate the right bar so it pulls inward a little on the top bar, again use the cargo cover as a gauge to see how level you are. After a little fiddling to get the top bar level, turn the black jam nuts against the bars and call it good

Peaty · 02-27-2006, 09:10 PM

That's about it, I know it seems complicated when reading everything but it really is simple to do. To remove the bar just do the above in reverse order to relieve the tension on the bars and pull the pins. I have some cargo nets on the back and sides so I put some key ring loops in the bottom pins and hooked the nets to those.

Peaty 2-27-06

Peaty · 03-21-2009, 08:39 AM

A little tip from Tussen on the www.subaruforester.org site:

Quote:

I have an 06 FXTL and my strut top trim cover pieces have a plastic cargo net hook on top of the trim. In order for the QRSB to fit you must remove the hooks and this leaves an approximately 1" hole with tab cutouts visible. I am working on a part number for the trim pieces either without any cargo net hook or with the ones like you have.

My recommendation would be to have the top portion of the bar installed when snugging down the strut tophat nuts. I had a slight mismatch that required taking the strut tops all back apart and realigning.

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