it8ezbngrn

Ok I am going to explain how relays work and tell you how to wire a few simple relays up.

Your standard relay that every uses or get with a fog light kit or at the auto shop looks like this. It has four sometimes five tabs. The fifth tab is generally in the center. Four tab models do not have the center tab. They are label like this

-- 87
85 I -- I 86
87A
I 30

The I and -- represent the tabs in this picture

Top is 87
left 86 center 87A right 85
bottom 30

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it8ezbngrn

I relay needs power ( +12V ) and ground( -12V ) on tabs 85 and 86. Doesn't matter which gets which generally. Lets say 86 gets +12 V and 85 gets -12 V. OK?

When the relay has connections and power on these to tabs it is "energized". It switches conections between the tabs. All it is is a electrical switch. So when 86 has +12 V and 85 has - 12V (ground) it is energized and it switches connections between the tabs. When it is "energized" or "switched on" the tabs 30 and 87 are connected to each other internally.

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it8ezbngrn

When it is not "energized " or "switched off" the tabs 30 and 87A are connected. If you only have a 4 tab relay this does not apply.


So if +12V or -12V (ground) ins not present. This is how the tabs wiull be connected.

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it8ezbngrn

Lets do a simple relay. this works for horns or fog lights.

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it8ezbngrn

Let do starter kill , like most alarms.

This could work for the ignition wire too.. wink wink


Now this is a tricky one. See when the alarm is off the relay is not energized. So the connection is between 30 and 87A. So the starter wire is connected. But when the arlarm is on... it has - 12V at 85 and when the starter is turned it get +12V at 30 and moreimportantly 86, which energizes the relay and makes the relay change the connections from 30 and 87A to 30 and 87. Which dissconnects the starter.

Oops see next post!!!

it8ezbngrn

Okay her it is teh starter kill pic

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it8ezbngrn

Ok now we switch between horns. This will require a switch.

The switch will be connect to the relay and to ground. The horn wire under the hood are +12V. If you wnat you can use another relay to up the power then connect the output of that relay to the 30 tab of this relay. When the switch is oof the stock horn blows. When it is on the hellas blow.

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it8ezbngrn

The reason I jumper the horns +12V or the starter wires +12 V is for ease of use and one major thing. If you used a +12V constant. the rlay coulkd be on for long periods of time. Causeing it to heat up and if parked for a week it could drain a battery dead. So I always think how long and how much will this relay be energized.

it8ezbngrn

One last security one. this will not work for everyone bit it cna be tailored if you think about it. It will work for DEI alarms on Subys.
the colors are standard DEI colors. You may need to diode your starte kill wire at the starter kill and at the relay so that they dont feed back and forth to each other. The silver band on the diode should face away from the relays when you wire it in.

What this will do is give you a pulsing horn honk with your flashing parking lights when you door is opened. I sort of 2nd alert. A cheap way to get that responder type alarm. So you can physically hear if they've gotten inside your ride or if its a frigging cat.

When the siren is going off, the door is opened and the parking lights are flashing while the alarm is armed, the horn will honk.

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it8ezbngrn

pic of diode install.

If car does not crank over or relay clicks on and off when parking lights are turned on and off with out alarm being on do this. The diode stop the ground from feedback back to the other relay. It mayneed to be done. Do this on the orange wire of the starter kill relay and the relay we just made. Install as shown on both.

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it8ezbngrn

One more this is the SHIZZZNIT.

THis for the DIY remote start on a manual trans.

Most remote starts have a Neutral safety switch input for it to start. On our subaru WRX it has a green with black stripe wire that gives -12 when in any gear. So I modidfed a relay to make it safe for remote start.

When the car is in nuetral and the e brake is up. the remote start will start.

Important- The 2nd igniton wire must be used for only the relay. If connected to the ignition wire of the key switch it will click everytime you shift. DEI has a 2nd ignition wire off thier relay satellite that is not used on the WRX. IF you have soem other alram that only has a -250mA output for the 2nd ignition, a relay will need to be used to turn it into +12V. this way te relay only works during remote start and not all the time.

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it8ezbngrn

I need to delete the last post and replace it with a new one that is correct.

This the correct relay configuration for doing a remote start on a WRX with a DEI remote start or remotestarting alarm. This is the relay for insuring that the car is in nuetral and the E brake is engaged.


# 85 -12V when in gear. Green with Black stripe wire from ECU.

#86 +12V from 2nd ignition relay, relay satelite, pink with white stripe on DEI remote starts. Or a 2nd ignition output that supplies +12V from any other alarm. Some only have a 250mA -12V output so it may require you to use a relay to invert the polarity.

#30 is the green parking brake wire in. Just tap off the wire.

#87A is the black with white stripe Nuetral Safety Switch input to DEI remote starts. May be other colors on other alarms.

What this will do is......When the parking brake is up and the car is in nuetral, the e barke -12V ground signal will flow throught the relay to the Nuetral Safety Switch input allowing the car to remote start. If the car is in gear or the E brake is down it will interrupt the signal and the car will not recieve the -12V at the NSS and it will not start.

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OhBe1

As in:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...&threadid=3190

Something to point out is that Hella & Bosch relays have the pins swapped around.

The referenced thread show the Bosch pinouts, as well as that for all the Bosch clones - which covers most manufacturers.

Hellas are different, but are properly numbered. Go by the numbers, not the positions.