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Old 02-18-2007, 03:18 PM   #1
Peaty
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STi Lower Arm Bar - Front SG install

This is a very simple install, it takes longer to find the tools you need than it does to do the actual install. This is a brace that ties the front end together, kind of like a strut tower brace but at the bottom on the subframe instead.

Where I got mine, a very good vendor for all your OEM stuff:

Ben Sabelhaus (AKA HondaSlayer)
www.HodgesSubaru.com
Performance@HodgesSubaru
248-547-8800
877-0547-8353

Takes Subaru Bucks call them for details

From what I understand this will only fit the SG foresters (2003 on)

edit: It has been confirmed that on the SF forester (NA motor) the headers get in the way of installing the bar. I'm not sure but this may be the case for the SG NA motors too.

Peaty 2-18-2007


This is what comes in the box:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg STi Lower Arm Bar in package 1.jpg (60.1 KB, 250 views)
File Type: jpg STi Lower Arm Bar full 1.jpg (83.8 KB, 168 views)
File Type: jpg STi Lower Arm Bar CU 2.jpg (63.9 KB, 163 views)
File Type: jpg STi Lower Arm Bar CU 1.jpg (74.1 KB, 122 views)
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2006 B9 Tribeca - 7 pass Ltd (wifes ride)

1999 Miata - Daily Runabout

Last edited by Peaty; 02-23-2007 at 12:54 PM..
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Old 02-18-2007, 03:19 PM   #2
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What you will need:

Ramps / wheels chocks
- To get the car in the air safely
Eye Protecton - Keep crap from falling in your eyes
17mm Socket - To remove the two outer subframe bolts
12mm Socket - To remove the two rear jacking plate bolts
Torque wrench - torque the bolts in of course

Torque Specs:

17mm subframe bolts = 41 ft lbs / 55 Nm for the Americans.
12 mm jacking plate bolt = 15 ft. lbs / 20 Nm
Attached Images
File Type: jpg tools.jpg (97.2 KB, 151 views)
File Type: jpg car in the air safely.jpg (63.5 KB, 122 views)
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Old 02-18-2007, 03:30 PM   #3
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The install is for the most part pretty simple. Remove the two 12mm bolts from the back of the jacking plate, then remove the two subframe bolts. Holding up the bar to the jacking plate will make it obvious which subframe bolts to remove. I was expecting the subframe bolts to be super tight so I got my breaker bar. As it turns out they were not all that tight, I think a regular ratchet will do. Next just bolt the bar in place and torque it in. For the subframe bolts you will use the new ones supplied and discard the ones you removed.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg jacking plate bolts 12mm.jpg (77.6 KB, 299 views)
File Type: jpg subrame bolt 17mm.jpg (50.7 KB, 216 views)
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Old 02-18-2007, 03:34 PM   #4
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Some pics of it installed
Attached Images
File Type: jpg from the front.jpg (44.5 KB, 392 views)
File Type: jpg view from rear.jpg (52.1 KB, 253 views)
File Type: jpg center cu.jpg (60.9 KB, 243 views)
File Type: jpg STi sticker.jpg (30.0 KB, 243 views)
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Old 02-18-2007, 04:59 PM   #5
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Because this bar really is for an Impreza, a bracket supplied will not be a drop on fit. There is a small fastener bracket that can not be put on easily because the bolt threads are too close to the subframe to get the nut on. In all honesty I don't really think these are needed. The bolts there don't already have them and they have never backed out. Unless you can come up with a creative way to secure them I would not loose any sleep over not installing them. I happened to have two of those plastic molly type fasteners. I stuck those in there, because it was such a tight fit (I had to use a hammer to seat them) I don't think they will fall out. Others have tapped threads in the hole and used a different bolt.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg holding bracket.jpg (75.6 KB, 140 views)
File Type: jpg installed fasterner end overview.jpg (120.9 KB, 151 views)
File Type: jpg installed fasterner end.jpg (98.7 KB, 165 views)
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Old 02-18-2007, 05:54 PM   #6
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This is SuperRU's Creative bracket solution.

Tap bolt hole to 5/16-24.
Grind ˝ “ 5/16-24 bolt to 3/8"

Attached Images
File Type: jpg bolt.jpg (21.4 KB, 23 views)
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Old 02-19-2007, 07:05 PM   #7
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OK I went back and got a tap and made some threads in the hole to set the bracket in there properly. I had to drill the hole in the bracket for the bolt just a little bigger and then took a tap and ran it in the hole. I had to shorten the bolts with a hack saw (a dremel will work too). I put a nut on the bolt and then cut, that way I could clean off some of the burrs. Then I bolted it back in there. It didn't take all that long to do while on the car but it would have been a lot easier while the bar was off If you can't find a tap, you can just put the bolt that was supposed to be in there and tape it in place with some duct or electrical tape. The whole purpose for the bolt is to keep the bracket from rotating on the horizontal. Having a metal bolt in there will prevent that from happening.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg tapset.jpg (103.7 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg tapping the hole.jpg (56.3 KB, 84 views)
File Type: jpg drill bracket.jpg (61.5 KB, 91 views)
File Type: jpg cut bolt.jpg (59.2 KB, 94 views)
File Type: jpg bracket tapped.jpg (53.6 KB, 116 views)
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Old 02-19-2007, 07:06 PM   #8
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One more pic and another scan
Attached Images
File Type: jpg getto fix.jpg (71.0 KB, 165 views)
File Type: jpg subaframe.jpg (190.9 KB, 120 views)
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